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Routes in Aretes

Blacksmiths T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cheap Hooker T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Diagonal Will T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Ghost Dancer Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lauren's Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Life Aquatic, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Odyssey, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pathfinder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Porcelain Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pound Town T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Prussian Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Road Head T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Russian Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sistine Reality T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Suffer Pony at the Disco T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
World According to Guppy, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yellow Submarine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 1500 ft, 11 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Jared Ogden, Topher Donahue
Page Views: 3,585 total, 40/month
Shared By: chris Kalous on Aug 8, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2016 Raptor Closures Details

Description

This 11 (or so) pitch line is another magnificent and committing route put up by Ogden and Donahue. The climbing is clean and safe throughout and the pitches after the traverse feel very out there. The views from the Hooker Buttress up and down river are extraordinary.

P1. Start in a small, leftward-leaning, arched corner. Continue up a little munge and a deep corner. Step right and pull a steep splitter (10+). Continue up easier ground to a small ledge right of an obvious splitter on the arete, 5.10+, 165'.

P2. Face climb left to the splitter and head up, 5.9, 165'.

P3. Step left and head up to some peg. Climb through this, trending a bit left, then traverse back right into corner. Belay on perch below the next peg band, 5.10, 165'.

P4. Climb out left under roof. Look for a pin way left, then step right around lip of the roof. Continue up a steep corner, then traverse a ledge to stance with a bolt, 5.10, 100'.

P5. Kinda a wacky pitch. Climb down from the belay, then back up a ramp, don't go up the crack at the top. Climb down again to another corner. We climbed up this corner for a ways then stepped left to the belay (5.10+). The route actually steps left around an arete from the base of the corner and climbs up past a bolt to the belay (one bolt and gear). It's very difficult to see the belay until right on top of it. Just keep going left, 5.10, 80'.

P6. Step left and up to a bolt. Continue up on small gear and trend left on a series of ledges to a belay with a bolt, 5.10, 90'.

P7. Traverse up and left past two bolts. Climb up past a fixed nut into a shallow crack (12-). Continue up the crack. Then step left and clip a bolt and traverse left to a thin corner (12). Up to a sloping belay with a bolt. 5.12, 100'.

P8. Climb left, then back right to a flaring corner with a pin. Clip a bolt and boulder up and left again (12). Climb past another bolt to the giant roof. Climb through a cleft in the roof, step right at (or before) a fixed pin. Belay just above the lip of the roof, 5.12, 100'.

P9. Climb up steep ground to a hard-to-clip bolt. Pull the roof to another bolt (12). Step left at the second bolt and go up cracks. Step back right and up cracks to a belay on a pillar. It may be possible to go straight up from the second bolt- good luck with that, 5.12, 130'.

P10. Climb up corner on slightly crumbly rock to a bolt. Pull the roof above and continue up corner. Look to traverse right on good edges before the top of the corner (8R), 5.11+, 120'.

P11. Climb steep but juggy ground past two bolts (11-). Continue up and trend left to an alcove below some bushes. Our topo showed a possible 5.11- flake a little right toward the top of the pitch, but it felt more natural to continue left, 5.11-, 120'.

P12. Traverse right on easy but run-out ground to access exit gullies to the top, 5.7, 100'.

Trundle through the woods for 5-10 minutes to find the trail and take a right. It is about 35 minutes back to the ranger station.

Location

This route starts on the very right side of the Hooker Buttress. We accessed the grassy ledges at the start via an obvious gully system (5.8ish 240') that starts above the river and accesses the middle of the wall. Go right from the top of the gully, across grass, onto stair step ledges. Continue past some ancient stashed gear, and almost into the gully that divides the Hooker from the Russian Arete. A small, leftward-arching corner with a bush is the start.

Protection

"RPs" and stoppers, Doubles 00 through 3 Camalots. Single 3.5 and 4 (old) Camalots.
Great route! We left the car at 04:40, started pitch 1 at 06:30 and topped out at 15:00. The day was mostly sunny, 50 degrees, and it was good temps.

We followed chalk straight up on pitch 9 after the second bolt instead of going left. There is a bomber #1 about 20' up and slightly right of the bolt. Maybe 5.11 climbing? Hard to say, I was uber pumped at that point. Nov 13, 2017
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.12
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.12
Hey, Jay, think we saw your chalk on route. If so, thanks! Helped us find some of the hidden holds.... Oct 30, 2017
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Definitely in the top two 512s I've done in the canyon! Perfect in 40s with a light down. Oct 30, 2017
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.12
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.12
Such a kick ass route!!! Hard, committing, and exposed. We roasted with a high of 50. I'd recommend in the 40s. Still doable though. We found a 4 nice to have. Be sure to traverse low on the traverse pitches. This might be the steepest route I've done in the Black and probably the best 5.12 dare I say?? Get on it! Oct 29, 2017
MauryB
Boulder, CO
 
MauryB   Boulder, CO
 
One of my top picks in the Canyon so far. We were fortunate to pick a moderate day with some clouds and a breeze, otherwise would have been crushing heat. That old gear stash on the approach is classic!

Agree with above: double 0 to #2 and a single #3 was plenty. Only placed a few stoppers. Apr 25, 2016
Rob Duncan
Salt Lake City
  5.12
Rob Duncan   Salt Lake City
  5.12
We brought a single #4 and single #3 Camalot. You could go without the #4, but it was nice on the second pitch. Great climbing, amazing rock. A few of the 5.12 pitches have a calcite varnish on them that makes it feel like limestone climbing! Pretty cool position on the wall, but we did get scorched by the sun.

Edit to add: the traversing pitches are pretty cool! They do go hard left! When in doubt, just keep on traversing. Aug 25, 2014
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Sent? Apr 2, 2012
chris righter
  5.12
chris righter  
  5.12
Make sure to do this route in cool conditions, it gets sun all day. We didn't use any thing larger than a #3 Camalot. You could also go singles on small cams up to green C3, then double up after that. Great route. Mar 29, 2012