Type: Trad, 1900 ft, 11 pitches, Grade IV
FA: September 21, 2009 - Jeremy Roop and Joe Forrester
Page Views: 2,463 total · 21/month
Shared By: Joe Forrester on Sep 24, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Approach: descend SOB Gully and head for the Painted Wall. Enter the gully between the Northern arête of the Painted Wall and the Porcelain Arête Buttress. Ascend for 200-300 feet on 3rd class until it is possible to traverse the Porcelain Arête Buttress on third class. Traverse to the East side of the buttress and locate the right-most (most north east) bushy dihedral.

P1. 230'. Follow a bushy, left-facing dihedral up the arête surmounting a small roof in process. Belay on nice ledge (5.7+).

P2. 230’. Instead of heading into the left-facing dihedral as for the Porcelain Arête, head up and right into the right-facing dihedral. Step left under obvius crack to belay (5.7+).

P3. 110’. Continue up a loose “limestone” crack surmounting small roof. Belay directly on the arête (5.9-).

P4. Make improbable moves over an arête to regain the right side of the arête (5.9+/10-).

P5-9. They are almost entirely on the northeast face of the Porcelain Arete buttress.

P5. 230’. Head out right along 3-4” crack, making a hand traverse into an offwidth. Belay on top of pillar on East side of the buttress (5.8-).

P6. Face climbing directly up from thP5 belay leads to a ramp leading up and right. On top of ramp, dicey free climbing leads to belay ledge (5.10R).

P7. 220’. Head right along ledge to an offwidth. Belay at top of offwidth. Classic (5.8-).

P8. Head up broken rock to the base of the first large pillar on the Porcelain Arête buttress (5.7).

P9. Continue on the left side of a pegmatite tower, and find a belay in large blocks (5.6-5.7).

P10/11. Continue up easy 5th class climbing to summit.

Descent: follow the Painted Wall trail back to camp.

Location

This is located on the Porcelain Arete Buttress, to the right of the Porcelain Arete route.

Protection

1 #4, doubles 3-0.5, set of Aliens, set of stoppers. 70m rope advantageous.

Photos

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