Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: ??
Page Views: 210 total · 1/month
Shared By: Imran on May 16, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

A couple hundred feet left of the Russian Arete (which needs to be added) is a pillar in front of the wall.

P1-5. Starting up the ramp behind this, we climbed five pitches (all over 150 feet) of relatively good rock, with 2 roofs that turned out to be not so bad. All of this protected well in the 5.7-5.9 range. The fifth pitch had a fixed nut out right from a large roof and tougher climbing (5.9).

P6-7. Above this, things turned interesting/ugly, and we no longer saw any evidence of previous parties. A right-facing peg corner with a good hand crack for most of it (pitch 6), followed by a right-facing, crumbly, junk corner (pitch 7). Both were in the 5.10 range with pitch 7 containing a hard move (read- pull on gear).

P8. A 5.7 pitch returned us to the finish of the Russian Arete.

P9-10. Approximately 400 feet of mostly scrambling with one small chimney allowed us to get to the rim before dark (barely). I'm not sure I'd recommend it, since the harder pitches had the worst rock, but it might be helpful for someone who is as stupid as us and can't find the Russian Arete.

I would hesitate to claim a first ascent (we saw gear 5 pitches up), but the upper pitches seemed so unclean it may have been. The peg handcrack is actually pretty cool, when you're done with it! Wear a helmet and place belays below overhangs. The only reason I knew my partner dropped a cam was that it fell differently than all the rock!

Protection

We brought doubles up to #3 Camalot and a #4 Camalot.

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