GPS: 38.579, -107.703 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 20,081 total · 384/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 3, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a beautiful section of the North Rim which includes some terrific, if terrifying, routes of somewhat shorter length. This is a section for the good routefinder who does not fear disjointed rock at times. It is right of Painted Wall and left of SOB Gully.

L->R:

A. Porcelain Arete, IV 9+, 9p, 1800', gear.

B. Suffer Pony at the Disco, IV 10, 11p, 1900', gear.
C. Sistine Reality, IV 11+ R, 11p, 1700', gear.
D. Diagonal Will, V 11 X, 18p, 1900', gear.
E. Pathfinder, V 10+ R, 13p, gear.
F. Blacksmiths, IV 12, 11p, 1500', gear.
G. Prussian Arete, IV 10, 9p, 1000', gear.
H. Russian Arete, IV 9+, 6p, 800', gear.
I. 
Ghost Dancer Arete, III 10+, 5p, 500' + 800', gear.
J. The Life Aquatic, III 11-, 5p, 700', gear & bolts.
K. Yellow Submarine, III 10, 6p, 920', gear & pins.
L. The World According to Guppy, III 10, 5p, 800', gear.
M. Lauren's Arete, III 9 R, gear.
N. Road Head, III 10, 6p, 700', gear.

Getting There

From the campground on the North Rim, descend the SOB Gully almost to the river. Look for 2 gullies on the downstream side.

17 Total Climbs

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Location: Aretes Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Aretes

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 19
● Lauren's Arete
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 80
● Russian Arete
Trad 6 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
● Porcelain Arete
Trad 9 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
● The World According to Guppy
Trad 5 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
● The Odyssey
Trad 8 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 14
● Ghost Dancer Arete
Trad 5 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
 8
● Sistine Reality
Trad 11 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
 4
● Cheap Hooker
Trad 10 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 11
● Blacksmiths
Trad 11 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Lauren's Arete
 19
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
● Russian Arete
 80
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 6 pitches
● Porcelain Arete
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 9 pitches
● The World According to Guppy
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
● The Odyssey
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 8 pitches
● Ghost Dancer Arete
 14
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 5 pitches
● Sistine Reality
 8
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad 11 pitches
● Cheap Hooker
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad 10 pitches
● Blacksmiths
 11
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 11 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Aretes »

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This is a beautiful place to climb! Looking up canyon from midway up the route.
This is a beautiful place to climb! Looking up…
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