The World According to Guppy
Avg: 2 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||T. Roy, B. Collett, May 2012|
|Page Views:||1,336 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Collett on May 5, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a fun, steep romp up good rock with almost no pegmatite, fun face climbing low down and an excellent, airy handcrack on the last pitch.
P1. From the start ledge, step right, climb some blocky terrain, and angle back left to the corner on the right side of the roof. Face climb left below the roof, climb up past the left side of it and angle up and left, belaying after 180 feet below two dihedrals, 5.9.
P2. Take the smaller, left dihedral until it ends, step left and climb into a larger dihedral. Exit this to the right and follow a shallow, facey dihedral with little gear until just below a steeper section, then face climb right to a belay below a nice looking corner with a thin crack, 5.9, 140 feet.
P3. Climb up into the corner system, and follow it to a good ledge at around 50 feet. From the ledge, climb through an awkward, offwidthy move to a large right angling ramp, and follow it easily to a belay after 180 feet.
P4. Continue up the ramp for 20 feet or so, and then head straight up past some blocks, angling slightly left to a belay on a ledge below the right side of a big roof, 5.9, 100 feet.
P5. Continue slightly left, and then traverse right to a shallow, left-facing corner. Step left at the level of the roof and climb a great hand to offwidth crack in the hanging, right-facing corner to the top of the buttress, 5.10-, 100 feet.