Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest, Seth Dyer 2014
Page Views: 1,896 total · 26/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Oct 12, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Discothèques were one of the most inclusive environments in the United States during the 70’s. Marganlized communities came together in a safe, welcoming, tolerant, experience of pulsating music and human connection. This line is stunning and the pitch tackles a splintering crack through an other worldly section of pinkish basalt. This all natural gear line features 90' of classic Volunteer Canyon bottle neck finger locking, a clever Paradise Forks style low crux, and a full on Waterfall style roof-stem box crux at the top. There is some sweet exposure and a splitter small hands crack with excellent finishing holds at the top.

There's tons of good gear on this pitch, and both cruxes are well protected. I feel like this will be an enjoyable, though a challenging onsight for anyone climbing the grade on local basalt. Don't forget your runners.

RAPPEL- Straight down 90' off of the front of the little 'watch tower' formation, 30' climber's right (west) of the Nyctophiliac drainage. Extra rope and rigging is nice to keep your rap line where you want it. Good Ponderosa anchors are a ways back in the woods. Rope guards are useful on the edge of the cliff as usual here.

BELAY- All gear, #.3- .5 size units in a horizontal just above sloping ledge with large patches of scrub oak below and right. A few medium wires or #.3 work well for higher pieces, though in a hollow/welded block.

Location

30' climber's right (west) of the top out drainage of Nyctophiliac, there is a small out cropping on the rim. The route tops out on the lower east shoulder of this little 'watch tower'. Rap off the front, watch for loose rock on the way down.

Protection

RACK- doubles from #00 TCU or BD through #.75, as well as a #2 BD down low. Medium wires/ large wires can be useful. Full length runners.

If you’re going for a flash, I'd bulk up on #00- #.5 sized units. It's also that kind of pitch where you can double up the smaller units in the same place. If you enjoy that as much as I do these days....

Photos