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Routes in West End Wall

A Flickering Flame T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Basalt of the Earth T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Calloused Earth Skin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cash, Grass, or Ass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Disco's Dead T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Jade Feather T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Like a Shadow in the Night T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nyctophiliac T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Phantasm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plain Jane Glory T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shoshin T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Take a Chance On Me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Joel Unema, JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2015
Page Views: 376 total, 16/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 27, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

It takes but one small flame to dispell all the darkness in the universe....

A Flickering Flame is a quasi adventurous, all natural gear route, that for the grade will please the connoisseur. The gently overhanging crux section offers small good gear, and very bouldery sequences, up a stunning, though faint dihedral accented by an eye catching orange and yellow streak which runs vertically parallel to the upper seam.

Rappel down the Nycto Gully 125' to a pillar top belay. #.3- #.5 are handy at the belay.

Start as you would for Like A Shadow In The Night. At roughly the 50' mark, figure out the compression problem which grants access to the bottomed out, "backwards J" seam out climber's right. Once established on the seam, several big, cruxy moves follow over good gear and open air.

If you make it to the rather enjoyable jug after the crux section, it's time to calm down, and not blow out your flame. The next 30' is technical climbing and placing gear on the run. This section is gorgeous as you climb along the bright orange streak on your left.

Once the angle breaks, climb to the right of a small oak bush up rather fun 5.8 to the top. Exit into the Nycto Gully.

Location

Shares first 50' of Like A Shadow In the Night. Climber's right of Nyctophiliac.

Protection

Doubles from #.2- #2. Small/ medium wires are nice.

Photos

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