Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Trevor Bowman 4/20/19
Page Views: 469 total · 14/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Sep 20, 2019
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Stage 1 Fire Restrictions in Effect on Coconino and Kaibab National Forests Details

Description

Shares the belay perch and 2 bolt anchor with Plain Jane Glory. Start PJG and almost immediately cut right on a blocky/juggy horizontal into a parallel crack system on a steep panel. Steep moves on good locks/jams and juggy edges lead up to a bolt, bust a couple steep moves up rad face features up to a horizontal (staying left in the system also goes, but wasn't cleaned thoroughly as it infringes more on Plain Jane and misses some great moves). Switch gears and engage the balance as you stand up on the horizontal and work the sub-tips splitter to another horizontal. Continue up a slightly right-leaning system (keep your eyes peeled for an awesome pocket), until you can traverse left into a stembox. Clip a 2nd bolt and enjoy juggier features to the top of the box, and a final slab exit with some cool horizontals/pockets.

A pretty diverse route with several hard sections. The steep lower bit is postive and powerful, whereas the slab micro-splitter is flared and tenuous.

Location

Locate the top of Plain Jane Glory near the west end of the West End Wall (look of the small juniper adjacent to the rim with the lower limbs trimmed up). Rap down about 10' or so climber's right (skier's left) of the juniper, over a flat, rippled section of basalt on the rim. Use the bottom belay (2 bolts) for Plain Jane Glory.

Protection

2 bolts
In BD sizes:
(2X) purple C3-.1
(3X) .2-.5
(1X) .75-#1

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