Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Joel Unema, JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2015
Page Views: 902 total · 23/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 27, 2015
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

A well protected 5.13-, all natural gear route is still a rare treasure in Arizona. Like a shadow in the Night is such a gem, which combines 125' of classic Volunteer climbing, with bouldery cruxes that boil down to your fitness and skill, rather than blind faith in the rubber on your soles.

Rappel straight down the Nyctophiliac gully to a pillar top belay. #.3- #.5 are handy. Nyctophiliac starts off the climber's left side of the pillar, while Like a shadow in the Night starts off on the right side of the pillar.

Work your way past 5.9 hand cracks to chimney roof at 35'. As you work out the little roof, the climbing and the gear get more thoughtful. You will work past some welded blocks and 5.10- climbing to a good shake at a conspicuous white jug on the left, just before the steep upper half of the route.

From this point, 5.11- climbing will lead you into the first of several black bouldery cruxes with good gear. If you can crank through the darkness, you will be rewarded with a fantastic shake and awesome 5.8 climbing to the top. Exit into the Nycto Gully.

Location

Climber's right of Nyctophiliac. Starts off of the same belay.

Protection

Doubles from #.2- #2. Medium wires are handy, and there may some fixed wires on the pitch.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
Jay Eggleston   Denver
Wow, looks intense! Nov 27, 2015