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Routes in West End Wall

A Flickering Flame T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Basalt of the Earth T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Calloused Earth Skin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cash, Grass, or Ass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Disco's Dead T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Jade Feather T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Like a shadow in the Night T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nyctophiliac T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Phantasm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plain Jane Glory T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shoshin T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Soultangler, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Take a chance on Me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild as Hell, Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Joel Unema 2017
Page Views: 249 total · 33/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23 Details

Description [Edit]

Shoshin is a concept of the Beginners Mind, an idea of keeping an open mind. This climb begins with a traverse off the shared belay to gain a steep seam. Big moves on positive face holds lead to a steep, clean dihedral. Technical and powerful climbing leads to jugs. Above, there are several options, the FA took the cleanest line up and right. follow the wide stembox up 10ft until you can step out right onto the arete. Follow the arete to the top, placing small gear and climbing awesome slopy features.

Location [Edit]

shares a belay with Cash Grass or Ass and Disco's Dead and traverses crimps off the right side of the belay

Protection [Edit]

Belay: C4 0.3 and 0.4x2
I placed the following:
Sliders (1 blue, 2 red)
Small offset nuts and one medium nut
c3's (000x3 greenx2, red x1, yellowx1)
c4 (0.5 x1, 1 x1, 2 X1)

Photos

t.schwartz  
 
Really fun climbing on big holds (5.12) to a stinger of a boulder problem (V9?) followed by much easier climbing (5.10). Bomber gear on this one (though really tiny). May 7, 2018

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