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Routes in 6. West End Wall

A Flickering Flame T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Basalt of the Earth T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Calloused Earth Skin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cash, Grass, or Ass T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Disco's Dead T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Jade Feather T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Like a shadow in the Night T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nyctophiliac T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Phantasm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plain Jane Glory T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shoshin T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Soultangler, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Take a chance on Me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild as Hell, Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Joel Unema 2017
Page Views: 339 total · 33/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Shoshin is a concept of the Beginners Mind, an idea of keeping an open mind. This climb begins with a traverse off the shared belay to gain a steep seam. Big moves on positive face holds lead to a steep, clean dihedral. Technical and powerful climbing leads to jugs. Above, there are several options, the FA took the cleanest line up and right. follow the wide stembox up 10ft until you can step out right onto the arete. Follow the arete to the top, placing small gear and climbing awesome slopy features.

Location

shares a belay with Cash Grass or Ass and Disco's Dead and traverses crimps off the right side of the belay

Protection

Belay: C4 0.3 and 0.4x2
I placed the following:
Sliders (1 blue, 2 red)
Small offset nuts and one medium nut
c3's (000x3 greenx2, red x1, yellowx1)
c4 (0.5 x1, 1 x1, 2 X1)

Photos

t.schwartz  
 
Really fun climbing on big holds (5.12) to a stinger of a boulder problem (V9?) followed by much easier climbing (5.10). Bomber gear on this one (though really tiny). May 7, 2018
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.13+
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.13+
repeat by Wilson Cutbirth Spring 2018 Jun 19, 2018

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