Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2013
Page Views: 3,117 total · 50/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 10, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Nyctophiliac is a Greek term meaning "friend of the dark" and is commonly thought of as a love of nighttime or darkness. This pitch is a jaw dropping, heart kicking, scream inducing, all natural gear line which climbs the center of a brilliant black water streak.

This steep, bouldery crack climb starts out with 50' of thoughtful "Overlookesque" trad daddy terrain with vertical fingers and small hands jamming. Several different block boulder problems (5.10) add some intrigue to the growing mystery.

A very natural break after the intro offers a fantastic rest and the opportunity to eye the dark, overhanging finger crack which looms eerily above. 5.11 climbing off the break leads to a conspicuous orange jug and the entrance to the very definitive crux section. Despite the positive holds and finger locks(?) you'll use everything you've ever learned at Paradise Forks to gain the "gravity amp" jug which splits the crux into two sections. When things seem darkest before the jug, look around the arête to the right and be gifted a perfect sidepull rail.

Getting your feet onto the gravity amp jug is harder than you might first expect, and the moves here are wildly exposed. It's also the apex of the routes steepness. Fret not, because the gear on this 125' monster is as biter as it comes. The original pitch stays in the lefthand black system and does not meld into Like a Shadow in the Night just right. I'd hate to see you cheat yourself of the full value experience.

The second 5.12 to be established at Volunteer. This pitch conjured memories of Acid Test Crack at the Forks because of the crisp jamming, dramatic stances, boulder problem cruxes, and it's just a striking line. If you're a connoisseur of 5.12 basalt trad climbing, you are not going to want to pass up this out of the way line.

The top of this line sits in a low spot of the rim and is a snow catch drainage, thus the black streaks. Due to wildlife and spring thaws, it will require some seasonal brushing. If you want to go for the onsight, talk your partner into going down and giving it a brushdown. It’s an effort well rewarded.

Location

About 20' to the climbers right of Phantasm, to the right of Jade Feather. Rap down the large drainage 125' to a perched boulder ledge belay. The belay takes #.3 through #.75 BD pieces. Nyctophiliac starts left of belay, on giant grey flake.

Protection

I essentially used a triple set from #.3 through #1 camalots. Smaller, and larger units could find a home. Small/ medium wires. Whisk broom.
Description has me sold Nov 13, 2013
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
Is this a climb or a promo for a Bruckheimer movie? Mar 10, 2014
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.12-
Action, adventure, and you'll fall in love with the gear.... Heartache and revenge.... But the good guy always wins in the end. Mar 16, 2014
Blake M
 
Blake M  
 
Great route. Thanks for the addition JJ Jul 10, 2014
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.12-
Finding a diamond in the rough is always exciting, but knowing the line is getting some love and getting people psyched is even better. Well done Blake. It may be the second ascent unless someone chimes in here somewhere...somehow. Jul 11, 2014
Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
 
The name seemed very apropos the other day, as there are lots of little "friends of the dark" hanging out in the crack from the start of the headwall through the gravity amp jug. I never saw any, but they were sure chirping and seemed rather upset. May 23, 2018
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12b
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12b
Super dirty from runoff currently, lots of bat poop in spots too Oct 1, 2018 · Temporary Report
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.12-
I added “whisk broom” to the suggested rack. Oct 1, 2018 · Temporary Report