Elevation: 6,629 ft
GPS: 35.119, -111.935 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 83,943 total · 627/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 21, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

Overview

The South Side of Volunteer Canyon is a stunning array of beautifully balanced columns and one of the finer displays of columnar basalt in Arizona. While some of it is losing ground in the battle against erosion and gravity, there are sections of the cliff that are unbelievably solid and offer up some timeless routes. You can sniff out everything from splitter cracks to powerful face climbing and a lot of times you’ll find them on the same pitch. You will only find a couple routes here with true moderate grades.

The 5.10 climbing is generally pretty good with steep jam cracks ruling the scene. There are twenty-one pitches in the grade. The 5.11 climbing usually combines one or more styles with confirmed classics. There are eighteen pitches in the grade. The 5.12 climbing tends to be unique in one way or another with often full value, full length routes. There are eighteen pitches in the grade. The South Side also boasts six 5.13’s with styles ranging from super thin seam climbing to bouldery face climbing, as well as, steep finger cracks.

These routes require rapping to specific belays and climbing out, which may make them a bit tricky to find your first time out. For now, all I can say is that it is best to locate the routes from the North Side of the canyon, and eye the topouts well. There are faint trails, and to the discerning eye the topouts should be recognizable.

The East End Wall and The Pillar Wall both face Northwest, and in the dead of summer hold fast to their shade till very late in the day. The Canary Wall, the Iron Wall, Memorial Wall, and the West End Wall face Northwest and stay in the shade until early afternoon. More shade in the fall. The walls are listed in order of appearance from the falls at the head of the canyon which is east to west.

We have encountered Black Tail Rattlesnakes in temperatures near 95 degrees. They cannot survive long with body temps above 105 degrees, so if thier favorite haunts are too toasty they have to flee. Understandably, this makes them irritable and aggressive. Watch your step, and watch out for your dogs.

Getting There

South side of the canyon. The road that parallels the south rim is technically closed to motor vehicles. 

67 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 48
A Rusted Rapture
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 33
Pig Iron
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 29
Experimental Forrest
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 20
Detritus Spite Us
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 31
Parallel Universe
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Plain Jane Glory
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 22
Drop the Hammer
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 30
Phantasm
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 17
Discothèque
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 20
Iron Potato
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
Nyctophiliac
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
 5
Jade Feather
Trad
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 8
Like a Shadow in the Night
Trad
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 3
Disco's Dead
Trad
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 3
Shoshin
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
A Rusted Rapture 2. E End Wall
 48
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Pig Iron 5. The Iron Wall
 33
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Experimental Forrest 2. E End Wall
 29
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Detritus Spite Us 5. The Iron Wall
 20
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Parallel Universe 3. Pillar Wall
 31
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Plain Jane Glory 7. W End Wall
 22
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Drop the Hammer 6. Memorial Wall
 22
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Phantasm 7. W End Wall
 30
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Discothèque 7. W End Wall
 17
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Iron Potato 5. The Iron Wall
 20
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Nyctophiliac 7. W End Wall
 22
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Jade Feather 7. W End Wall
 5
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 Trad
Like a Shadow in the Night 7. W End Wall
 8
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad
Disco's Dead 7. W End Wall
 3
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Trad
Shoshin 7. W End Wall
 3
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Trad
More Classic Climbs in South Side »

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