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Elevation: 6,629 ft 2,021 m
GPS: 35.11921, -111.93526
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 103,405 total · 622/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 21, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Overview Suggest change

The South Side of Volunteer Canyon is a stunning array of beautifully balanced columns and one of the finer displays of columnar basalt in Arizona. While some of it is losing ground in the battle against erosion and gravity, there are sections of the cliff that are unbelievably solid and offer up some timeless routes. You can sniff out everything from splitter cracks to powerful face climbing and a lot of times you’ll find them on the same pitch. You will only find a couple routes here with true moderate grades.

The 5.10 climbing is generally pretty good with steep jam cracks ruling the scene. There are twenty-one pitches in the grade. The 5.11 climbing usually combines one or more styles with confirmed classics. There are eighteen pitches in the grade. The 5.12 climbing tends to be unique in one way or another with often full value, full length routes. There are eighteen pitches in the grade. The South Side also boasts six 5.13’s with styles ranging from super thin seam climbing to bouldery face climbing, as well as, steep finger cracks.

These routes require rapping to specific belays and climbing out, which may make them a bit tricky to find your first time out. For now, all I can say is that it is best to locate the routes from the North Side of the canyon, and eye the topouts well. There are faint trails, and to the discerning eye the topouts should be recognizable.

The East End Wall and The Pillar Wall both face Northwest, and in the dead of summer hold fast to their shade till very late in the day. The Canary Wall, the Iron Wall, Memorial Wall, and the West End Wall face Northwest and stay in the shade until early afternoon. More shade in the fall. The walls are listed in order of appearance from the falls at the head of the canyon which is east to west.

We have encountered Black Tail Rattlesnakes in temperatures near 95 degrees. They cannot survive long with body temps above 105 degrees, so if thier favorite haunts are too toasty they have to flee. Understandably, this makes them irritable and aggressive. Watch your step, and watch out for your dogs.

Getting There Suggest change

South side of the canyon. The road that parallels the south rim is technically closed to motor vehicles. 

73 Total Climbs

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Location: South Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 61
A Rusted Rapture
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 38
Pig Iron
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 29
Plain Jane Glory
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 27
Drop the Hammer
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 41
Phantasm
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 19
Discothèque
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 21
Daywalker
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
Long Iron
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 27
Nyctophiliac
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 26
Iron Potato
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 17
Ultraviolet Ammunition
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 17
Nightwalker
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
 13
Jade Feather
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 11
Like a Shadow in the Night
Trad
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 4
Disco's Dead
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
A Rusted Rapture 2. E End Wall
 61
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Pig Iron 5. The Iron Wall
 38
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Plain Jane Glory 7. W End Wall
 29
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Drop the Hammer 6. Memorial Wall
 27
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Phantasm 7. W End Wall
 41
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Discothèque 7. W End Wall
 19
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Daywalker 2. E End Wall
 21
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Long Iron 5. The Iron Wall
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Nyctophiliac 7. W End Wall
 27
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Iron Potato 5. The Iron Wall
 26
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad
Ultraviolet Ammunition 2. E End Wall
 17
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Nightwalker 2. E End Wall
 17
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Jade Feather 7. W End Wall
 13
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 Trad
Like a Shadow in the Night 7. W End Wall
 11
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad
Disco's Dead 7. W End Wall
 4
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Trad
More Classic Climbs in South Side »

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