South Side Rock Climbing

The South Side of Volunteer Canyon is a stunning array of beautifully balanced columns and one of the finer displays of columnar basalt in Arizona. While some of it is losing ground in the battle against erosion and gravity, there are sections of the cliff that are unbelievably solid and offer up some timeless routes. You can sniff out everything from splitter cracks to powerful face climbing and a lot of times you’ll find them on the same pitch. You will only find a couple routes here with true moderate grades.

The 5.10 climbing is generally pretty good with steep jam cracks ruling the scene. There are twenty-one pitches in the grade. The 5.11 climbing usually combines several styles with confirmed classics. There are eighteen pitches in the grade. The 5.12 climbing tends to be unique in one way or another with often full value, full length routes. There are eighteen pitches in the grade. The South Side also boasts six 5.13’s with styles ranging from super thin seam climbing to bouldery face climbing, as well as, steep finger cracks.

These routes require rapping to specific belays and climbing out which may make them a bit tricky to find your first time out. For now, all I can say is that it is best to locate the routes from the North Side of the canyon and eye the topouts well. There are faint trails, and to the discerning eye the topouts should be recognizable.

The East End Wall and The Pillar Wall both face Northwest, and in the dead of summer hold fast to their shade till very late in the day. The Canary Wall, the Iron Wall, Memorial Wall, and the West End Wall face Northwest and stay in the shade until early afternoon. More shade in the fall. The walls are listed in order of appearance from the falls at the head of the canyon which is east to west.

We have encountered Rattlesnakes in temperatures near 95 degrees. And yes they do use the crack systems. I’ve seen them slither over the edge in into cracks. Just so you know. If their favorite haunts are too toasty they have to flee. Understandably, this makes them irritable and more aggressive than they may normally be. Watch your step and watch out for your dogs. I’ve found them under my pack on the top of the cliff.