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Routes in West End Wall

A Flickering Flame T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Basalt of the Earth T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Calloused Earth Skin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cash, Grass, or Ass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Disco's Dead T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Jade Feather T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Like a Shadow in the Night T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nyctophiliac T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Phantasm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plain Jane Glory T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shoshin T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Take a Chance On Me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2016
Page Views: 171 total, 12/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Oct 2, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Take A Chance On Me is an airy and thought provoking all natural gear line, though there is not a ton of standard jamming on it. The route follows a wavering crack system just left of Cash, Grass, Or Ass. It is also the only warm up in the Nycto sector, and tops out the same way A Flickering Flame does, via 5.7 climbing which leads back to the top out into the Nycto gully.

Rappel off the front of the watch tower formation on the west side of the gully. 90' down is an obvious tan colored belay ramp. This is where Cash, Grass, or Ass starts, build a belay using finger sized units #.4 through #.75.

Starting from the belay, traverse left along an obvious rail to reach the crack. Once you gain the crack, avoid drag with runners on the first couple pieces in the flare. From there tackle everything from tricky layback moves, a reachy, pinchy crux, and even a little jug hauling. The texture on the route is awesome. Many foot bumps allow one to climb this more like a face.

At roughly the 50' mark, there is a stuck Purple TCU in a horizontal to the climber's left near an oak bush. This is your cue to start trending up and left through the path of least resistance to gain the next crack system. Follow this wavering hand crack to a saddle feature. Surmount climber's left, and exit into the gully.

Location

Crack system immediately left of Cash, Grass, Or Ass. Share belay.

Protection

Doubles from 000 through #1 BD cam. I also placed a single #3 BD and a #3.5 BD in pod flares. Medium wires could be handy. Bring a handful of long trad draws.

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