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Routes in Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)

Beeker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Bumble Bee T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Dystonia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Freedonia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Hannah Flower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Jack Knife T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Jack O'Lantern T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Jesus Nut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Lost in Utopia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Makamah Road T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Maze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Ora the Explorer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Rumney Rocks Climb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Skywalker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smashing Pumpkins T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Stones, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 25 ft
FA: Bradley White Oct. 2012
Page Views: 189 total · 3/month
Shared By: bradley white on Oct 24, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Start above the bottom of slab that has lichen and big holds or start above the lichen by traversing onto the slab. Go straight up at indent and the slab gets harder to climb as you go. The crux is above the indent. Make your way up to a horizontal seam (useless for fingers). It becomes a shallow finger crack by traversing right, then the heart rush is over. The slab remains steep or steeper at the seam. I bailed out over to Jack O'lantern. It goes on steeper for ten more feet. The slab is open for some distance below and falling at the crux with a rope this goes to boulders and trees, you might live. Free soloed but escaping from directly up wasn't supposed happen. It needs bolts!

Location

Left, lower start to Jack O'lantern Slab.

Protection

No pro except at the seam crack, one of the smallest flexible TCU's should fit it or a short lost arrow. Finish up Jack O'lantern or go a little higher to down climb the (5.1) diagonal traverse ramp that meets up with the crack.

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