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Routes in Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)
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Beeker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Bumble Bee T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Dystonia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Freedonia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Hannah Flower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Jack Knife T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Jack O'Lantern T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Jesus Nut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Lost in Utopia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Makamah Road T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Maze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Ora the Explorer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Rumney Rocks Climb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Skywalker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Smashing Pumpkins T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Stones, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 25 ft (8 m) |
| GPS: | 43.8021, -71.8367 |
| FA: | Bradley White Oct. 2012 |
| Page Views: | 1,134 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | bradley white on Oct 24, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Start above the bottom of slab that has lichen and big holds or start above the lichen by traversing onto the slab. Go straight up at indent and the slab gets harder to climb as you go. The crux is above the indent. Make your way up to a horizontal seam (useless for fingers). It becomes a shallow finger crack by traversing right, then the heart rush is over. The slab remains steep or steeper at the seam. I bailed out over to Jack O'lantern. It goes on steeper for ten more feet. The slab is open for some distance below and falling at the crux with a rope this goes to boulders and trees, you might live. Free soloed but escaping from directly up wasn't supposed happen. It needs bolts!
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