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Routes in Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)
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Beeker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Bumble Bee T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Dystonia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Freedonia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Hannah Flower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Jack Knife T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Jack O'Lantern T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Jesus Nut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Lost in Utopia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Makamah Road T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Maze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Ora the Explorer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Rumney Rocks Climb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Skywalker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Smashing Pumpkins T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Stones, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 43.8021, -71.8367 |
| FA: | Bradley White and Takuya Yoshida 4/10 |
| Page Views: | 953 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | bradley white on Apr 26, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
Ascend the the giant crack past a small tree. Afterward the crack ends move left onto face and go left to tree belay (30ft). Climb face to boulders scramble up past the pillar and ascend wall above at the lowest ceiling break on the right side (crux). Going left is to Hannah flower and this is an excellent connection of two climbs. Going right through the overlap we were stopped because of moss and dirt on the ledge. There is a a open step over to the slab left of Hannah Flower clean and spooky. We escaped upward east over low angle dirty ledges instead. The climb can be improved. 'Bumble Bee' can ascend the same slab as 'Hannah' does for the second pitch. This won't happen without some intense cleaning at the base of the slab. Still problematic because there is no protection on the step over onto slab. 60m rope and one long run out pitch? That'll be the stinger.
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