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Routes in Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)

Beeker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Bumble Bee T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Dystonia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Freedonia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Hannah Flower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Jack Knife T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Jack O'Lantern T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Jesus Nut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Lost in Utopia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Makamah Road T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Maze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Ora the Explorer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Rumney Rocks Climb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Skywalker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smashing Pumpkins T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Stones , The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bradley White and Takuya Yoshida 4/10
Page Views: 277 total, 3/month
Shared By: bradley white on Apr 26, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Ascend the the giant crack past a small tree. Afterward the crack ends move left onto face and go left to tree belay (30ft). Climb face to boulders scramble up past the pillar and ascend wall above at the lowest ceiling break on the right side (crux). Going left is to Hannah flower and this is an excellent connection of two climbs. Going right through the overlap we were stopped because of moss and dirt on the ledge. There is a a open step over to the slab left of Hannah Flower clean and spooky. We escaped upward east over low angle dirty ledges instead. The climb can be improved. 'Bumble Bee' can ascend the same slab as 'Hannah' does for the second pitch. This won't happen without some intense cleaning at the base of the slab. Still problematic because there is no protection on the step over onto slab. 60m rope and one long run out pitch? That'll be the stinger.

Location

Right side of Utopia Wall at the base of the large crack.

Protection

Stoppers and Friends.
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
"I left the rock as it is. There are some interestingly wedged stones within this complexity (a intimidating 5.4). Before and past the tree is the sequential crux. This first pitch has some lichen before the little tree. All of this pitch is fun. Rappelling after this pitch can be done from a maple tree. There are lots of ticks and black flies. I'm not going back up until much later on in the year."

Comment by bradley white on April 28th, 2010 6:48 am Jul 20, 2012
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
the start looks great. Apr 26, 2010