Avg: 0 from 1 vote
Routes in Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)
|Beeker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R|
|Bumble Bee T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Dystonia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Freedonia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Hannah Flower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R|
|Jack Knife T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Jack O'Lantern T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R|
|Jesus Nut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R|
|Lost in Utopia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Makamah Road T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R|
|Maze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R|
|Ora the Explorer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Rumney Rocks Climb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Skywalker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Smashing Pumpkins T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Stones , The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Bradley White, 2006|
|Page Views:||54 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||bradley white on Oct 16, 2010|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionI rappelled down from a oak tree to get to the climb.
I start up the wide open clean green weak flaked slab, It was easily climbed 30ft up right to better quality rock next to the wet head wall. Went up the overlap above the slab. Big exposure crux getting onto the overlap. Choice rock corner to top and liked the summit exposure over the slab. Its spooky with the abyss below. Cool moves go right to the bulge where the corner ends. After bulge easy exit or harder ones. For maximum exposure right I did the crack to the summit mound. The summit is a mound or two higher.
This climb was okay but became a bomb.
The oak trees died. Anchoring for rappel would be on gear and a little of it below where it tops off. This is a false summit top, not easy too locate.
Second ascent At the bottom there's a few options to the start and I went up the white quartz outcrop to a very dirty cracked corner. Then clean slabs for a while to the second pitch with no belay cracks.
Getting there its a dirt bomb to a climb directly above Jimmy Cliff Slab in the woods in the middle of the long rock band. This 30+ foot band must be climbed by one of its severe 4th class, dangerous creature features. Your choice which one. They are all nasty rock and trees to small or fully supporting body weight trees. Was hard to tell the trees apart until I pulled up on one.
Lots of ticks and their in the thickest underbrush above this band. Its like the jungle up there I should of had a machete. Carrying a long rope way the up here would be outrageously stupid weight. Maybe its got fifty feet of good rock to climb.