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Routes in Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)

Beeker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Bumble Bee T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Dystonia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Freedonia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Hannah Flower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Jack Knife T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Jack O'Lantern T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Jesus Nut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Lost in Utopia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Makamah Road T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Maze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Ora the Explorer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Rumney Rocks Climb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Skywalker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smashing Pumpkins T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Stones, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 40 ft
FA: Bradley White, 2012
Page Views: 83 total · 1/month
Shared By: bradley white on Mar 19, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Climb the left center side of outcrop for 15ft crux and then climb the lichen covered slab using twig trees sometimes for hands. It is difficult because of these twig trees and little positive hand gripping holds. I started it direct and I wanted to escape midway left. Wasn't happening so Moved up left and found to vertical cracks. Committed the cracks provided enough grip to get up this gripping slab crux. After this slab wander right towards the summit very easy 5th class low angle slabs and 10ft boulder problem outcrops at the top. Free soloed and not don't want to repeat it without a rope. It is actually the easiest fastest way to the summit. The slab cleaned up a little would make this a star climb. As it is, feel accomplishment against the odds to have gotten through it.

Location

When the tree leaves are gone, from the top of Lady and the Tramp, higher up left on the hillside there the rock outcrop is visible. Climb across from at the height of ground and climb up rock bulges to get near to the outcrop. Crash through some brush 30ft. to outcrop.

Protection

Medium Tri-cams and alien cams would work best on the slab. Small cams and possibly and medium/small wires at the start of the outcrop.

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Jason Scott Heacock
Milford, NH
Jason Scott Heacock   Milford, NH
Whats with all the Bombed routes? No one is ever going to get on a route like these with all the 1 -4 star amazing lines at Rumney! I just don't see the need to add a route that is always dirty, covered in lichen or littered with loose holds. From my point of view, I don't contribute anything that I think people wont enjoy...

Cheers mate Apr 19, 2017

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