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Routes in Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)

Beeker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Bumble Bee T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Dystonia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Freedonia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Hannah Flower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Jack Knife T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Jack O'Lantern T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Jesus Nut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Lost in Utopia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Makamah Road T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Maze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Ora the Explorer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Rumney Rocks Climb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Skywalker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smashing Pumpkins T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Stones , The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bradley White, 12/2011
Page Views: 1,636 total, 23/month
Shared By: bradley white on Dec 4, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This climb has lots of rocks on sloping grass beds and the rocks are stuck in place (frozen) to get up and over on. After the switch backing on rocks on the right is a stacked rock section past a want a rope and gear wall to climb it. I almost got up it and down climbed back to where I started instead. After the stacked rocks move much higher left through rocks and trees to large clean slab along side separated from the slab of 'Makamah Road'. After starting on the left side of this slab finish direct. Do another wall lichen covered to reach the top. I cut off left avoiding a bulge with crack finish also lichened.

Location

100ft. below and diagonal west of the start to 'Freedonia' at a short clean slab.

Protection

a few medium to large nuts and or cams. Trees

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