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Routes in Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)

Beeker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Bumble Bee T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Dystonia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Freedonia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Hannah Flower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Jack Knife T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Jack O'Lantern T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Jesus Nut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Lost in Utopia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Makamah Road T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Maze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Ora the Explorer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Rumney Rocks Climb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Skywalker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smashing Pumpkins T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Stones , The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bradley White
Page Views: 113 total, 1/month
Shared By: bradley white on Apr 16, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Not an easy place to get to the base of this climb. The line is the furthest west I've tried. It also seems to be at the end of the line for any climbs in this area. It is the best section so far. Solid, clean for the most part sticky for the shoes rock. Climb the line of least resistance of your own choosing (run out). Go direct or traverse left on top of block's outside edge to ramp with a few crack options that go right up this steepest section also. Lots of variations again to section above all these crack starts. Most have been done now and go at (5.5-7). Higher up there is broken glass on the ledges. Hasn't been a problem so far. People do throw bottles off of the summit. Bottles go towards this area.

Location

Stay on the same ridge that brought you there until at a large bulge of rock split at it's base. Climb up it and afterward traverse far to the right side of the bulge by dirt and trees to a 4th class ramp that is taken west until it ends on a narrow tree slope. Across this narrow slope is a spot to get ready for the climb. There is a direct approach up this tree slope, further west, past this 4th class section up.

Protection

regular light rack. some big slings.

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