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Routes in Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)

Beeker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Bumble Bee T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Dystonia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Freedonia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Hannah Flower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Jack Knife T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Jack O'Lantern T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Jesus Nut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Lost in Utopia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Makamah Road T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Maze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Ora the Explorer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Rumney Rocks Climb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Skywalker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smashing Pumpkins T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Stones , The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bradley White and Takuya Yoshida 3/2010
Page Views: 314 total, 3/month
Shared By: bradley white on Apr 16, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Climb onto lowest tongue of rock below pillar. Move right to blocks. After that move left and up to base of pillar. Climb block corner up to ground between pillar and wall. Climb right side of wall to traverse left under large dripping ceiling, excellent crux and it gets easier by stepping across the void under the ceiling onto a foot ledge. Move up and left in overlap to reach a big crack. Take crack through overlap (5.4 and a seriously bad pendulum fall for the leader and second) At the crack's end is the ramp to the edge of the slab. Belay with small wires under and above the edge. Get creative with oppositional placements. No pro on next pitch slab (5.3) A little dirty in places.

Location

Central east section directly below the only pillar.

Protection

Good pro when pro is available. Small wires needed for second pitch belay with opposition placements.

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