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Routes in Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)

Beeker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Bumble Bee T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Dystonia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Freedonia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Hannah Flower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Jack Knife T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Jack O'Lantern T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Jesus Nut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Lost in Utopia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Makamah Road T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Maze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Ora the Explorer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Rumney Rocks Climb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Skywalker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smashing Pumpkins T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Stones , The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft
FA: Bradley White Oct. 2012
Page Views: 500 total, 8/month
Shared By: bradley white on Oct 23, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Step over oak tree onto short friction slab onto traverse ramp. After ramp up low angle slab with crack. Continue up and before crack ends in slime and moss traverse to the right. Go directly up steeper lichen slab capped by white quartz crux. Plenty of good holds. Another short slab to grass clumps. Then rock steps up to the 20 foot high bulwark. Go up direct at the 10+ foot break in the bulwark. Its a one move wonder mental crux barn door blind faith maneuver at 5.4. right to the sloping platform ledge. Go out the left onto the stance exposed edge and step up crux to face climb. Some pine needles. Up low angle exposed slabs above that are giant chock stone blocks. After the blocks the climb is done in the rock rimmed ceiling above. 15 ft. of inclining impenetrable except for the one break above the rocks. Go up right to pine trees for belay. Walk off right up the dirt ramp to the rocky forest. Traversing west there's the bench ledge that looks like the top of a pumpkin. Its a perfect rock seat and will sit three or four people.
Its an alpine three star adventure but in cleanliness a bomb. Reminds me of climbing in Maine. It is the only continuance climb to the forest up here. Exciting cruxes. Best 5.4 in Rumney for elevation exposure. The forest below is open old oak. Repeated free soloed. Tick area.

Location

The slab uphill from the Stones. Start on the Stones and go right when you can up the oak tree gully about 30 ft. The lowest cleanest rock is on the left or west side of this slab. Besides this is a big rock and a good belay stance. There are three starts I've done that go to the same crack.

Protection

Take a #5 cam to do the off width and bring a couple of larger cams #2-3. Otherwise a very light rack with 4 lost arrow pitons and or small flexible wedge/ball nuts or TCU set and make sure you have at least four of the smallest sizes. Not good stopper cracks. I wandered east after the ascent and was able to gully and forest traverse myself west back to the start of the climbs.

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