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Routes in Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)

Beeker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Bumble Bee T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Dystonia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Freedonia T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Hannah Flower T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Jack Knife T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Jack O'Lantern T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Jesus Nut T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Lost in Utopia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Makamah Road T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Maze T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Ora the Explorer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Rumney Rocks Climb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Skywalker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smashing Pumpkins T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Stones, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 50 ft
FA: Bradley White Oct. 2012
Page Views: 87 total · 1/month
Shared By: bradley white on Oct 18, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Start on left side of lichen slab on big holds. Smear up to a rail. Traverse rail right to groove. Climb groove to smear up to giant grass ledge. Forty feet up come onto the grass ledge fifty feet wide headinf towards the hillside. A nice walk off instead before tackling the crux bulge. The battle of bulging clean slab crux irresistible. Smear up to the rail and get smear foot higher than rail to reach a bucket hand hold. Next rail is out of reach without another smear or two. Then it's over. Low angle rock and grass fifty more feet to trees. The climb should have two stars and the forty feet of slab to start, though of it as approach on lichen covered rock. Long and clean enough finish to make up for the poor start. Free soloed.

Location

300 ft east of Utopia Ledges. 20 ft uphill and furthest left from base of the slabs here. Nice ground below slab that's flat.

Protection

TCU or half tri cams or ball nuts would be best. Other wise baby angle pitons. Pro is there when needed most.

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