Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Cox, Bloom, Crawley, Mabe
Page Views: 190 total · 2/month
Shared By: Colin Cox on Jul 18, 2012
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Excellent 5.11 climbing for 5 bolts leads to a v0 boulder problem on a perched boulder. Finish past 3 more bolts on the final headwall with powerful and precise compression climbing on pinches and smeary footwork.

Location

Between Hobo Hash and Catwagon. Start in the obvious dihedral with bolts on the right side.

Protection

9 bolts

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
The Way of the Dacite Warrior... The lines are falling. Nice work guys. Jul 19, 2012
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
 
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
 
I found the bottom and the top of this climb to be very dirty. This part of the wall must get a lot of runoff from rain storms. I would give it another star if it weren't so dirty.
edit: Colin, I was thinking last week's rains got it all dirty. Aug 27, 2012
Colin Cox
  5.11d
Colin Cox  
  5.11d
I'll admit....we did a minimal amount of cleaning on this one. I was burnt out from cleaning several other routes, and the rest of the crew just doesn't care if it's dirty. Also, recent rains may have coated the rock with dirt, because I don't remember it being too dirty up high. Aug 29, 2012
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
 
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
 
Interesting climb. Very very dirty. Should be cleaner now after Sunday. Funky crux at the top. I may have been totally botching the beta but this would be a HARDCORE sad bag if the beta I was using is right. Other than the last three bolts fun climbing..........To bad it wasn't cleaned much........ Jun 10, 2013
Colin Cox
  5.11d
Colin Cox  
  5.11d
Darren hiked it on TR before any cleaning was done, and the crux is short with a napping ledge beneath.....one guy called it 11c/d here.....so I brought it down to 11d. Fact is that water drains down over this wall and so it will never be clean for long. It was in perfectly fine condition when I climbed it, yet everyone complains about the dirtiness, so the dirt must be coming back. Too bad indeed, cuz this route has fairly fun climbing on it. From what was left at the crag, this line appeared to have the best potential to be good, but it is what it is....dirty but good climbing, but not a very satisfying 12a(if you give it that)because of the ledge below the short crux. Jun 13, 2013