Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2014
Page Views: 1,388 total · 24/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 25, 2014
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Sweet Back Direct is a fantastic new variation to the classic Sweet Back. It’s both a hair easier and a pinch less technical if you’re finding all the right holds.

After bolt #5, and just below the bulge, move hard right on somewhat hidden holds. Moving up to the roof is straight forward enough, and eventually you'll gain a very cool pinch/crimp/jug at the lip of the roof, which is a shared hold with the regular route.

A series of distinct, vertical runnels above the roof on the right will test your gastoning skills and shoulders alike. If you are clever with your toes at this point, you'll be rewarded with two very unique finger buckets, and the end of the hard climbing. Clip one last bolt and scamper up good holds to the anchors.

If you have sampled Sweet Back and been rebuffed at the technical crux arête, then you may enjoy the Direct a little more. It is more straight forward, but just as pumpy. SBD is perhaps one of the better dacite routes in Flagstaff for the grade.

Location

Climbs dihedral start to break left of the crack route Tin roof Sunday.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2 bolt chain anchor with ClimbTech mussy hooks.

Photos

Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11c/d
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11c/d
One variation worth mentioning, I call "Svelte Back", climbs over the roof of SBDirect, hang a long runner on the bolt over the roof, establish in finger crack water-runnel but make long move straight left into the Sweet pockets, arete jug, and finishes with last two clips of Sweet Back. Possibly easier set of moves than the other two ways.. Aug 4, 2018