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Routes in Hobo Jungle

A No.1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Band of Gypsies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Rock Candy Mountain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Bindlestiff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Boxcar Tourist S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cackleberry S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Calling In S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cat Wagon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Couch Surfer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Elk Sign S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frisk A Drag S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gandy Dancer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grease the Tracks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
High Hanging Biscuits S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hobo Hash S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hobophilia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hobophobic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hungry Hungry Hobo S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jolt Train T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jungle Buzzard S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Late For the Gravy Train T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lucky Streak S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mulligan Pie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mulligan Stew S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mushfaker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Never Ending Night Train T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pie in the Sky T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Possum Belly S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Railway Runaway S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Redball S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Road Sister S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shootin' Snipes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
South of No North S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Southern Exposure S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steel Reserve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sweet Back S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sweet Back Direct S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tin Roof Sunday T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twist a Dream T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Uberfall T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Volt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wanderer Over Yonder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Westbound Willy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whistling Wabash, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
Page Views: 991 total, 23/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 25, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Sweet Back Direct is a fantastic new variation to the classic Sweet Back, and is both a hair easier and a pinch less technical.

After bolt #5, and just below the bulge, move hard right on somewhat hidden holds. Moving up to the roof is straight forward enough, and eventually you'll gain a very cool pinch/crimp/jug at the lip of the roof. A series of distinct, vertical water runnels above the roof will test your lay backing skills and shoulders alike. If you are clever with your toes at this point, you'll be rewarded with two very unique finger buckets, and the end of the hard climbing. Clip one last bolt and scamper up good holds to the anchors.

If you have sampled Sweet Back, and been rebuffed at the thoughtful/committing crux arĂȘte, then you may enjoy the Direct a little more. It is more straight forward, but just as pumpy, and just as committing as the regular route. And by committing, I mean committing to the movement, not that you're going to take hell whipper... It also stands out for the grade at this quaint crag.

Location

Just down from Mulligan Stew.

Protection

8 bolts

Photos

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