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Sweet Back Direct
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.4 from 16
votes
Routes in Hobo Jungle
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A No.1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Band of Gypsies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Big Rock Candy Mountain T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Bindlestiff T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Boxcar Tourist S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bros Before Hobos (FKA Mushfaker) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cackleberry S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Calling In S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cat Wagon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Couch Surfer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Elk Sign S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flagrant Vagrancy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flintstone Kids S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Frisk a Drag S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Gandy Dancer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Grease the Tracks S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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High Hanging Biscuits S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hobo Hash S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hobolicious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hobophilia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hobophobic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Honey Dipper S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hungry Hungry Hobo S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Jolt Train T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Jungle Buzzard S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Late for the Gravy Train T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lucky Streak S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Mulligan Pie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mulligan Stew S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Never Ending Night Train T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pie in the Sky S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Possum Belly S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Railway Runaway S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rambler's Choice S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Redball S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Road Sister S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rockin' Hobo TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Shootin' Snipes T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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South of No North S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Southern Exposure S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Steel Reserve S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Sweet Back S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sweet Back Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tin Roof Sunday T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Twist a Dream T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Uberfall T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Volt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wanderer Over Yonder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Westbound Willy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Whistling Wabash, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2014 |
| Page Views: | 3,092 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on May 25, 2014 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Sweet Back Direct is a fantastic new variation to the classic Sweet Back. It’s both a hair easier and a pinch less technical if you’re finding all the right holds.
After bolt #5, and just below the bulge, move hard right on somewhat hidden holds. Moving up to the roof is straight forward enough, and you'll gain a very cool pinch/crimp/jug at the lip.
A series of distinct, vertical runnels above the roof on the right will test your gastoning skills and shoulders alike. If you are clever with your toes at this point, you'll be rewarded with two very unique finger buckets and the end of the hard climbing. Clip one last bolt and scamper up good holds to the hanging chain anchors.If you have sampled Sweet Back and been shut down at the technical crux arête, then you may enjoy the Direct a little more. It is more straight forward, but just as pumpy. SBD is perhaps one of the better dacite routes in Flagstaff for the grade.
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