Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2014
Page Views: 2,636 total · 29/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 25, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route

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Sweet Back Direct is a fantastic new variation to the classic Sweet Back. It’s both a hair easier and a pinch less technical if you’re finding all the right holds.

After bolt #5, and just below the bulge, move hard right on somewhat hidden holds. Moving up to the roof is straight forward enough, and you'll gain a very cool pinch/crimp/jug at the lip.

A series of distinct, vertical runnels above the roof on the right will test your gastoning skills and shoulders alike. If you are clever with your toes at this point, you'll be rewarded with two very unique finger buckets and the end of the hard climbing. Clip one last bolt and scamper up good holds to the hanging chain anchors.

If you have sampled Sweet Back and been shut down at the technical crux arête, then you may enjoy the Direct a little more. It is more straight forward, but just as pumpy. SBD is perhaps one of the better dacite routes in Flagstaff for the grade.


Left of the crack climb Tin Roof Sunday.


9 bolts to a 2 bolt chain anchor with ClimbTech mussy hooks provided by the ASCA.