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Routes in Hobo Jungle

A No.1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Band of Gypsies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Rock Candy Mountain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Bindlestiff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Boxcar Tourist S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cackleberry S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Calling In S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cat Wagon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Couch Surfer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Elk Sign S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frisk A Drag S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gandy Dancer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grease the Tracks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
High Hanging Biscuits S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hobo Hash S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hobophilia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hobophobic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hungry Hungry Hobo S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jolt Train T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jungle Buzzard S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Late For the Gravy Train T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lucky Streak S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mulligan Pie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mulligan Stew S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mushfaker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Never Ending Night Train T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pie in the Sky T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Possum Belly S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Railway Runaway S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Redball S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Road Sister S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shootin' Snipes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
South of No North S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Southern Exposure S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steel Reserve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sweet Back S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sweet Back Direct S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tin Roof Sunday T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twist a Dream T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Uberfall T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Volt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wanderer Over Yonder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Westbound Willy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whistling Wabash, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Elevation: 7,800 ft
GPS: 35.39, -111.614 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 38,348 total · 561/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Tucked back on the east side of the San Francisco Peaks and north of Lockett Meadow is a small and secluded andesite/dacite crag called the Hobo Jungle. Hobo Jungles are camps of transient hobo communities, which congregate usually near a railroad. The hobo culture is quite elaborate and intriguing having aspects not too different than those of the climbing community. If you are more interested in hobohemia and an internet search isn't enough, check out the documentary "The American Hobo".



The climbing at the Jungle has been described as a “mini-Peaks” with climbs of all grades, though stacked with Elevens. Routes are mostly all bolted like the powerful sport problems, Jungle Buzzard and Redball. There are also a few trad/mixed adventures like Bindlestiff and Twist a Dream. Don't miss out on the crag's classics Southern Exposure and Mulligan Pie. The Jungle is also home to area testpiece, Steel Reserve, an overhanging 5.13. There's something for everyone.

Facing mostly east and in national forest land, the Hobo Jungle is a wonderful afternoon crag, though the left side routes get cool morning shade.

Getting There

The Hobo Jungle is a 30 minute drive from Flagstaff. Take 89 north out of Flag towards Page. After a little over 11 miles from the Hwy 40 junction, turn left on FR 545 (right is Sunset Crater). At the T after a half mile, turn right on FR 552 (left goes towards Schultz Pass). Follow this heavily washboarded road for a mile as it gradually bends left. Turn right on FR 418, and follow this for about 2.5 miles as it wraps around to a hairpin and lone boulder marker on the right. Turn LEFT and park in the parking area and popular campsite. From here, a casual 15 minute flip-flop stroll south along the jeep trail dead-ends to a nice clearing, and the Hobo Jungle crag on your right. NO MOTOR VEHICLES according to the Coconino National Forest Trails Map. Follow a path across the wash to the right end of the crag at the Hobo Cave and wonderful congregating spot, underneath the proud overhanging and thin bolted face of Steel Reserve. An alternate low trail follows the wash to the south and left end routes, featuring South of No North and A-No.1.

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44 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hobo Jungle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hungry Hungry Hobo
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Band of Gypsies
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hobophilia
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southern Exposure
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gandy Dancer
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mulligan Stew
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Redball
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hobophobic
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mulligan Pie
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Volt
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lucky Streak
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Back Direct
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sweet Back
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
South of No North
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Steel Reserve
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hungry Hungry Hobo 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
Band of Gypsies 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Hobophilia 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Southern Exposure 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Gandy Dancer 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Mulligan Stew 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Redball 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Hobophobic 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Mulligan Pie 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Volt 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Lucky Streak 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Sweet Back Direct 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Sweet Back 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
South of No North 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Steel Reserve 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Hobo Jungle »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Pablo-Roberts
Prescott, Arizona
Pablo-Roberts   Prescott, Arizona
Hey Flagstaff Community.

I may have left a light green hat somewhere around Hobo climbing area. Has anyone found it? It has a Pup N Suds Logo on it and is actually quite important to me. Any chance anyone has seen it around the base of the cliffs? I spent the last three weeks climbing in Hobo. Let me know. Would much appreciate it. Jun 27, 2016
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Even if it's a chain anchor.... Jun 12, 2015
Again and again don't steal the anchor biners! Jun 12, 2015
My group had to leave 4 quickdraws on Southern Exposure due to some rain that moved in quickly on Sunday evening. We should be back next weekend to pick them up but if anyone grabs them before please contact me at 602-341-3129. Thank you! May 4, 2015
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
This is more of a guess than real info. I'm guessing the climbing conditions are great, but that the road is closed. Feb 20, 2014
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
Thanks. That line looks sweet! ...and burl... Good luck to the FA! Aug 28, 2012
john crawley
flagstaff, az
john crawley   flagstaff, az
Red. The route will be posted and added as a project after it is finished being bolted. The route is a v7 to a v10 followed by easy, but really fun climbing. Aug 27, 2012
Hey Red...that's a route that Bloom and Crawley started and found to be v10 in the start, to 5.11 forced up the arete. Bolting is unfinished. Aug 27, 2012
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
Does anyone have beta on the route just to the right of Cat Wagon? Is it a proj? It seems to be the only route not listed here. Aug 27, 2012
I think it's good to add in big bold capital letters, DO NOT TOP ROPE ON FIXED BINERS!. Use only to lower or better yet just rappel. Good job camo-ing those as well gentleman. Might want to zip tie those biners so people get the message. Jul 27, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Many of the anchors at the Hobo Jungle are designed to employ two FIXED biners. PLEASE do not take any carabiners off of any anchor, unless you are planning on immediately replacing it with one of yours. Jul 26, 2012
Please pick up after your selves your mother doesnt live at this crag..or does she? either way lets keep this spot lookin good and clear of plastic bottles! Jul 24, 2012
Mark Mueller
Flagstaff, AZ
Mark Mueller   Flagstaff, AZ
Gah! got rained out today! Jul 23, 2012
JMo
Tucson, AZ
JMo   Tucson, AZ
Big rock candy mountains, Darren, JJ, Colin, Phil and everyone thanks for the Branch Line Jul 23, 2012
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Agreed! The area is terrific and you'll have done a great job setting some really fun routes. Can't wait to get back and get on some more. Really fun meeting and climbing and thankfully the rain on sprinkled a wee bit!! Thanks for all the hard work and I'm excited to have gotten up there after hearing such good things from folks. Right on! Jul 22, 2012
Thanks for a great little area guys. Had a blast meeting you and climbing. Let me know when you are coming down. Jul 9, 2012
A few days ago, at sunset, we witnessed approximately 500 bats fly out of the hole with all the chirping on Westbound Willy. Quite a site and certainly wouldn't want to be up on route when this happens again! Stick around to see it. Jul 4, 2012
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Big thanks also to Phil Rullman who found this hidden gem, realized the potential and brought me there last year to help put up new routes. We bolted the project above the hobo cave together as the first route. Welcome to the jungle! It has been great seeing the character of the routes develop and to give back to the positive and welcoming energy of the community. Jun 12, 2012
Eric D
Gnarnia
Eric D   Gnarnia
Nice work with this place Darren! Thanks for sharing and overall making this a good-time for everyone to contribute to, it's been a blast seeing the place develop. Jun 12, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Awesome Darren! Thanks for all the hard work, and for sharing the vision. This gentle canyon is destined to work it's way into the hearts of many. Jun 11, 2012
Great job D-ron, looks like a nice zone with some featured rock. Way to put the time in and get people psyched! Jun 11, 2012

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