Description

Tucked back on the north-east side of the San Francisco Peaks and north of Lockett Meadow is a small and secluded andesite/dacite crag called the Hobo Jungle. Hobo Jungles are camps of transient hobo communities, which congregate usually near a railroad. The hobo culture is quite elaborate and intriguing having aspects not too different than those of the climbing community. If you are more interested in hobohemia and an internet search isn't enough, check out the documentary "The American Hobo".

The climbing at the Jungle has been described as a “mini-Peaks” with climbs of all grades, though stacked with 5.11s. Routes are mostly all bolted like the powerful sport problems, Jungle Buzzard and Redball. There are also a few trad/mixed adventures like Bindlestiff and Twist a Dream. Don't miss out on the crag's classics Southern Exposure and Mulligan Pie. The Jungle is also home to area testpiece, Steel Reserve, an overhanging 5.13. There's something for everyone.

Facing mostly east and in national forest land, the Hobo Jungle is a wonderful afternoon crag, though the left side routes get cool morning shade.

Getting There

The Hobo Jungle is a 30 minute drive from Flagstaff. Take 89 north out of Flag towards Page. After a little over 11 miles from the Hwy 40 junction, turn left on FR 545 (right is Sunset Crater). At the T after a half mile, turn right on FR 552 (left goes towards Schultz Pass). Follow this heavily washboarded road for a mile as it gradually bends left. Turn right on FR 418, and follow this for about 2.5 miles as it wraps around to a hairpin and lone boulder marker on the right. Turn LEFT and park in the parking area and popular campsite. From here, a casual 15 minute flip-flop stroll south along the jeep trail dead-ends to a nice clearing, and the Hobo Jungle crag on your right. NO MOTOR VEHICLES according to the Coconino National Forest Trails Map. Follow a path across the wash to the right end of the crag at the Hobo Cave and wonderful congregating spot, underneath the proud overhanging and thin bolted face of Steel Reserve.

49 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hobo Jungle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 77
Hungry Hungry Hobo
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 34
Band of Gypsies
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 32
Late for the Gravy Train
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 74
Hobophilia
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 74
Elk Sign
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 110
Southern Exposure
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 76
Gandy Dancer
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 104
Mulligan Stew
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 48
Redball
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 35
Mulligan Pie
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 29
Volt
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 9
Sweet Back Direct
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 12
Sweet Back
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 48
South of No North
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 15
Steel Reserve
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hungry Hungry Hobo
 77
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
Band of Gypsies
 34
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Late for the Gravy Train
 32
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Hobophilia
 74
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Elk Sign
 74
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Southern Exposure
 110
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Gandy Dancer
 76
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Mulligan Stew
 104
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Redball
 48
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Mulligan Pie
 35
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Volt
 29
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Sweet Back Direct
 9
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Sweet Back
 12
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
South of No North
 48
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Steel Reserve
 15
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Hobo Jungle »

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Great job D-ron, looks like a nice zone with some featured rock. Way to put the time in and get people psyched! Jun 11, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Awesome Darren! Thanks for all the hard work, and for sharing the vision. This gentle canyon is destined to work it's way into the hearts of many. Jun 11, 2012
Eric D
Gnarnia
Eric D   Gnarnia
Nice work with this place Darren! Thanks for sharing and overall making this a good-time for everyone to contribute to, it's been a blast seeing the place develop. Jun 12, 2012
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Big thanks also to Phil Rullman who found this hidden gem, realized the potential and brought me there last year to help put up new routes. We bolted the project above the hobo cave together as the first route. Welcome to the jungle! It has been great seeing the character of the routes develop and to give back to the positive and welcoming energy of the community. Jun 12, 2012
A few days ago, at sunset, we witnessed approximately 500 bats fly out of the hole with all the chirping on Westbound Willy. Quite a site and certainly wouldn't want to be up on route when this happens again! Stick around to see it. Jul 4, 2012
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Thanks for a great little area guys. Had a blast meeting you and climbing. Let me know when you are coming down. Jul 9, 2012
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Agreed! The area is terrific and you'll have done a great job setting some really fun routes. Can't wait to get back and get on some more. Really fun meeting and climbing and thankfully the rain on sprinkled a wee bit!! Thanks for all the hard work and I'm excited to have gotten up there after hearing such good things from folks. Right on! Jul 22, 2012
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
Big rock candy mountains, Darren, JJ, Colin, Phil and everyone thanks for the Branch Line Jul 23, 2012
Please pick up after your selves your mother doesnt live at this crag..or does she? either way lets keep this spot lookin good and clear of plastic bottles! Jul 24, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Many of the anchors at the Hobo Jungle are designed to employ two FIXED biners. PLEASE do not take any carabiners off of any anchor, unless you are planning on immediately replacing it with one of yours. Jul 26, 2012
I think it's good to add in big bold capital letters, DO NOT TOP ROPE ON FIXED BINERS!. Use only to lower or better yet just rappel. Good job camo-ing those as well gentleman. Might want to zip tie those biners so people get the message. Jul 27, 2012
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
Does anyone have beta on the route just to the right of Cat Wagon? Is it a proj? It seems to be the only route not listed here. Aug 27, 2012
Hey Red...that's a route that Bloom and Crawley started and found to be v10 in the start, to 5.11 forced up the arete. Bolting is unfinished. Aug 27, 2012
john crawley
Westminster, CO
john crawley   Westminster, CO
Red. The route will be posted and added as a project after it is finished being bolted. The route is a v7 to a v10 followed by easy, but really fun climbing. Aug 27, 2012
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
Thanks. That line looks sweet! ...and burl... Good luck to the FA! Aug 28, 2012
Again and again don't steal the anchor biners! Jun 12, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
With the help of the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA) we have installed ClimbTech steel mussy hooks on the anchors of many of the popular routes here. Rejoice, the era of razor sharp or missing anchor biners is behind us! For a while anyway.

The ASCA is playing a crucial role in the maintenance of routes across the country by providing free bolts and anchor hardware for rebolting efforts of established routes. Look them up and check out their projects across the country. Though they are corporate sponsored, they also accept out of pocket donations. Many thanks to thier organization for the hardware.

These anchors are designed for safe, hassle free, and efficient lowering. I’ve seen people rappelling off these hooks as if they were chain anchors, and that’s exactly what we are trying to eliminate. If you are new to this type of anchor, do everyone a favor and just clip them and lower off so people who may be waiting for the route can get on it. This crag has become a great area for beginner climber’s learning the ropes so just get lowered off and top rope through the hooks. That said, if you have the crag to yourselves and you have a whole party top roping a route, please top rope on your own draws and then simply transfer the rope to the hooks for the final lowering if you know how to safely do that.

One of the reasons for the quick wear of aluminum anchor biners here is the fine 300 grit volcanic soil which clings to everything it touches. Using a rope bag will help preserve your rope, as well as, the anchors.

It is still a good idea to have a leaver biner on your harness if you’re getting on some of the more obscure lines in case you need to swap it for a worn anchor biner.

Updated Routes as of 9/1/2018:

1. Whistling Wabash
2. Road Sister
3. A No. 1
4. Elk Sign
5. Southern Exposure
6. Gandy Dancer
7. Railway Runaway
8. Twist A Dream
9. Hungry, hungry Hobos
10. Redball
11. Frisk a Drag
12. Late for the Gravy Train
13. Hobophilia
14. Calling In
15. Band of Gypsies
16. Hobolicious
17. Hobophobic
18. Hobo Hash
19. Lucky Streak
20. Volt
21. Sweet Back
22. Sweet Back Direct
23. Mushfaker Jul 21, 2018