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Routes in Hobo Jungle

A No.1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Band of Gypsies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Rock Candy Mountain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Bindlestiff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Boxcar Tourist S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cackleberry S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Calling In S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cat Wagon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Couch Surfer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Elk Sign S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frisk A Drag S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gandy Dancer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grease the Tracks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
High Hanging Biscuits S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hobo Hash S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hobolicious S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hobophilia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hobophobic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Honey Dipper S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hungry Hungry Hobo S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jolt Train T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jungle Buzzard S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Late For the Gravy Train T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lucky Streak S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mulligan Pie S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mulligan Stew S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mushfaker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Never Ending Night Train T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pie in the Sky T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Possum Belly S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Railway Runaway S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Redball S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Road Sister S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shootin' Snipes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
South of No North S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Southern Exposure S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steel Reserve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sweet Back S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sweet Back Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tin Roof Sunday T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twist a Dream T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Uberfall T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Volt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wanderer Over Yonder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Westbound Willy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whistling Wabash, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: EFR, Cox
Page Views: 1,241 total · 17/month
Shared By: Colin Cox on Jul 8, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

High Hanging Biscuits is a beautiful line that climbs independently on the other side of the Mulligan Stew arete, and continues to the top of the crag via a crux head wall. A 5.11 crux on the arete in the first 30 feet yields to some classic cruising with occasional jugs. Navigate an interesting slab which steepens to an enjoyable jug haul over a crest. Follow another slab as it steepens into the final head wall crux. Stick a tenuous move... and clip, then tug through good crimps to the chains.

Location

Between Mulligan Stew and Red Ball.

Protection

11 bolts
Thanks for putting a cherry on top of a great weekend Colin! Great to meet a bunch of the Flagstaff gang. I have a whole new respect for Hobos. Jul 9, 2012
Colin Cox  
 
It was good to meet you Eric. Thanks for your work...and the elk....and the book. I hope that name works for you. Jul 9, 2012
High hanging biscuits means there is a scarcity of food handouts in an area. There was no scarcity of new route handouts at the Jungle thanks to Darren and others willingness to share. Thanks. Jul 11, 2012
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
The arete moves are tricky and great position. The headwall crux is brief and might be a tad height dependent, but good moves on bullet rock! The first clip in the headwall is a difficult draw to hang. Another option to keep the climbing 11 and under is to bail out to Mulligan's anchors at its last bolt instead of doing the biscuits headwall. Jul 18, 2012
Colin Cox  
 
How about a low anchor at the crest for a nice 5.11....and one can choose to add the headwall finish for more difficulty. Jul 21, 2012
The name is High Hanging Biscuits which means you gotta work for it. Let them bail left if they don't want to get the good stuff. It's only a couple letters harder

I thought the bolt in the headwall was hard to clip when we set it up but on the Redpoint I used a hold to the left and it wasn't too hard to clip. Jul 23, 2012
Colin Cox  
 
I had no problem putting the draws on and clipping when I did it, but I had been there before....I knew what to expect. Eric, this route has seen two onsights already so I decided to lower the grade to 11d which is what you suggested after you hiked it. Felt that way to me also when I did it. Jul 23, 2012
I agree with the grade Colin. Looks like you are staying busy up there. Guessing other folks will give you a concensus as the weeks go by. Start thinking about a visit as I am back from the Valley. Jul 23, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Pretty thin technical climbing down low, and a series of serious cranks up high. Kind of felt like a South Dakota Needles route... Sep 1, 2012

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