Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: D.Mabe and A. Mabe, May 2012
Page Views: 378 total · 5/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

A bindlestiff is a hobo who carries his belongings wrapped in a bundle attached to a stick carried over his shoulder. This route opens with a steep face start and slab cruise past a few clips to the base of the corner crack. Jam, stem and layback your way up the hands and thin hands crack.

Location

Follows the obvious slab prow and corner right of the Lucky Streak area.

Protection

A few stoppers, cams #0.4 to #2 C4, #3C4 optional, with maybe an extra in the thin hand sizes. An optional small cam placement can protect the boulder problem start.

Photos

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10b
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10b
A fun, solid, hand jamming line that is very clean and very sweet. Great feet through the overhanging bit and solid pro. Jul 22, 2012
J. Hickok
Salida, CO
  5.10
J. Hickok   Salida, CO
  5.10
Rock will likely get a little better over time as it sees more ascents, but it is fairly good already. Good jams up high mixed with face-holds and layback moves. Start is actually easier than it looks. Aug 14, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Funky boulder problem start... Dirty alternate start to the Left? Once in the crack proper it seemed the best rock wanted to accommodate #1 camalots. I easily would have placed three. Didn't use the #3. Good stemming stances in the steep part. A crack jug haul.... May 18, 2013
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
Bouldery to slab to 40 feet of crack climbing bliss. This climb is fantastic and underrated. The situations are stellar for the grade. Jun 30, 2013
Pablo-Roberts
Prescott, Arizona
  5.10a/b
Pablo-Roberts   Prescott, Arizona
  5.10a/b
I think the beginning is the hardest climbing on this whole route. Easily v2. Jun 15, 2016
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
the first 4 bolts of Railway Runaway make for an excellent alternate start Apr 25, 2017
SO MANY BATS! there must have been a hundred bats tucked up in the crack. I could see them writhing around and all the ledges were covered, covered, in guano.

Other than that, a great climb. Maybe bring a respirator. Jul 1, 2017
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b
Alternate start can be made around corner to the left with a couple of long moves to and from the starting jug. This idea was proposed in above comment by JJ. #0.5C4 protects the starting moves though not really any more pro until the 2nd bolt of Bindlestiff. Don't think it's really easier or harder than original start. Can also continue with Railway Runaway above slab. Sep 10, 2018
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
We did the left start last time for Railway Runaway. I would agree that it is no easier, but the big moves and big holds are hard to refuse. I was thinking it would be nice to add a couple bolts because the stone is great, and might pair better with both these lines. Sep 10, 2018