Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: D. Mabe, June 2012
Page Views: 294 total · 4/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

This Sedona style route is the grungy and crumbly dihedral left of Mulligan Stew that will only continue to get better as it cleans up. Despite its crusty exterior, it still kicks up some fun movement near the top. Begin as for Mulligan stew, clip the first bolt, but head left up the stone escalator to the base of the corner. Finish with exciting mantle on to the ledge. The pro can be good, but careful attention should still be made in where you place it or you will be catching the Westbound!

Location

Left of Mulligan Stew.

Protection

C4s from #.5-#3 plus a few large stoppers should do the trick

Photos

J. Hickok
Salida, CO
  5.9
J. Hickok   Salida, CO
  5.9
Won't ever do that one again unless I hear that somebody has pressure washed the nastiness out of the finger crack. Maybe the rock will clean up, but I don't know about that piss in the crack! Not recommended - too bad because the movement is nice up high. I've climbed plenty of nasty cracks before, but this one is in the worst condition.

Revision (found this in comments for main page) - this explains the nastiness in the crack: "A few days ago, at sunset, we witnessed approximately 500 bats fly out of the hole with all the chirping on Westbound Willy. Quite a site and certainly wouldn't want to be up on route when this happens again! Stick around to see it." (original poster: hamlincheese) Aug 14, 2012
Robbie Brown
the road
Robbie Brown   the road
This climb smells like piss. May 29, 2013
David Deville
Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.9
David Deville   Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.9
This crack seems to have cleaned up. Showed up after a rain/snow and this was one of the two dry routes (Mulligan Stew was mostly dry as well). WW is great for the grade at Hobo. Nov 1, 2015
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
This sure has cleaned up quite a bit from the time I did it 6 years ago. It does climb pretty well for the style and grade. Removed tat from anchors, added links/biners for lower-off. Aug 6, 2018
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
I moved the anchors to the top of the corner Aug 17, 2018