Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: JJ Schlick 2012
Page Views: 3,053 total · 39/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

A sweet back is a hobo "sheik", and one who merely samples the ways of hobo living. This route features excellent, bouldery movement on positive holds, and it's a great sports action route. For the grade it feels like some of the steeper dacite climbing around town, and the rock quality is excellent.

Begin up featured left facing dihedral passing one bolt on the left, then continue up and left to a plank rest. Long draws on the first two bolts off the ledge will help your rope flow. When ready, punch through 25' of semi technical bouldering to a decent rest below the obvious bulge.

At the bulge, move up and left to some square cut jugs, then traverse up and right a couple feet to get the conspicuous sidepull pinch. This pinch on the right side of the bulge is a crucial hold and everything should fall into place once you get it. A flat sidepull just inside the arête should allow you to get your feet over the bulge and a good knee scum. The next set of jugs and moves are priceless and it's wide open air at that point. Follow the curving spine to hanging chain anchors.

Location

Towards the middle of the wall. Right of the popular Hungry, Hungry Hobos and Hobolicious, to the left of Tin Roof Sunday. Hard to miss if you are looking for it.

Protection

9 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor ClimbTech mussy hooks.

Photos

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
I would have fallen off this thing if JJ hadn't given me some clues. It is a fun climb. Thanks for a fun day JJ. Jul 9, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.12-
Yes, dacite can be a tricky stone, and you tend to miss a lot first go. But hats off to a sports action filled ascent! Now I might have to do that middle line... Jul 9, 2012
Aaron Townsley
Scottsdale, Arizona
Aaron Townsley   Scottsdale, Arizona
I've climbed the direct line a few times now, I hopped on Sweet Back just recently and it appears some holds broke off at the upper arete. There is a very obvious broken section. Unless I missed something (even after puzzled trouble shooting for 15 minutes) I think this route just jumped up a good leap in difficulty, I was unable to figure out a way to pull through this upper roof area to get up onto the slab. Darren, JJ, or anybody who climbs here often please let me know what your thoughts are when you get out there next? Mar 30, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.12-
Can't imagine what holds might have gave at the bulgy crux. I'll definitely take a look next time I'm out there. Mar 30, 2015
Aaron Townsley
Scottsdale, Arizona
Aaron Townsley   Scottsdale, Arizona
After talking with someone who has climbed it, I may have just been a bit confused as to how that section is done. Although there definitely seems like a section of rock on the bulgy arete gave out. either way i'd love to hear what you guys think next time you get out there. Apr 10, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.12-
Snuck out there today, and all the holds are still there. It's not a straight forward crux, but it is pretty damn good once you figure out how to do it. Jun 6, 2015
Pablo-Roberts
Prescott, Arizona
 
Pablo-Roberts   Prescott, Arizona
 
Reading the description is confusing, as myself and 4 other people did not do the crux as described.

We all went left at the bulge, and used technical foot work and gaston crimps/pinches way out left of the smooth arete. ultimately either skipping the second to last bolt and going left up jugs or moving back right into the big jug to clip that bolt and straight up.

Regardless it still seemed 12-. Slippery pinches/gastons on the upper left. Jun 20, 2016
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.12-
The route was bolted to climb the bulge on the right side through a compression crux and a couple hard to see pocket jugs. I've never seen anyone climb that far left Pablo, however I have seen a lot of folks get shut down at the bulge. Its an improbable set of moves until you just do it, and there’s no way of pussy footing through it. Jun 20, 2016
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
According to my tick list I did this with you JJ. I remember using the crack I think and not being able to clip the bolt and running it out. Two weeks ago I did it staying left in the dihedral which was also fun and in the 12- range. Jun 21, 2016
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12-
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.12-
I remember you climbing the bulge and then finishing on what is now the direct finish. I should probably add you on the FA;) Jun 21, 2016