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Routes in Hobo Jungle

A No.1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Band of Gypsies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Rock Candy Mountain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Bindlestiff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Boxcar Tourist S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cackleberry S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Calling In S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cat Wagon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Couch Surfer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Elk Sign S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frisk A Drag S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gandy Dancer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grease the Tracks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
High Hanging Biscuits S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hobo Hash S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hobophilia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hobophobic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hungry Hungry Hobo S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jolt Train T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jungle Buzzard S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Late For the Gravy Train T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lucky Streak S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mulligan Pie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mulligan Stew S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mushfaker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Never Ending Night Train T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pie in the Sky T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Possum Belly S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Railway Runaway S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Redball S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Road Sister S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shootin' Snipes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
South of No North S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Southern Exposure S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steel Reserve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sweet Back S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sweet Back Direct S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tin Roof Sunday T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twist a Dream T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Uberfall T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Volt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wanderer Over Yonder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Westbound Willy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whistling Wabash, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: JJ Schlick
Page Views: 2,609 total, 39/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

A sweet back is a hobo "sheik", and one who merely samples hobo living. This route features excellent, BOULDERY movement on good holds, and it's a great sports action route. For the grade it's some of the better dacite climbing around, and the rock quality is excellent.

Begin as for Tin Roof Sunday up the dihedral passing one bolt on the left, then continue up and left to a plank rest. Long draws on the first two bolts off the ledge will help your rope flow. When ready, punch through 25' of semi technical bouldering to a decent rest below the obvious bulge.

At the bulge, move up and left to some square cut jugs, then hard right to get the huge sidepull pinch, and then back left to the arĂȘte to gain the necessary compression. A few slaps up the arĂȘte should allow you to get your feet over the bulge. The next set of jugs and moves are priceless and it's wide open air at that point.

Location

Towards the middle of the wall. Right of Hungry, Hungry Hobos, and to the left of Tin Roof Sunday.

Protection

9 bolts, 2 bolt fixed biner anchor.

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
I remember you climbing the bulge and then finishing on what is now the direct finish. I should probably add you on the FA;) Jun 21, 2016
According to my tick list I did this with you JJ. I remember using the crack I think and not being able to clip the bolt and running it out. Two weeks ago I did it staying left in the dihedral which was also fun and in the 12- range. Jun 21, 2016
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
The route was bolted to climb the bulge straight on, through a compression crux. I've never seen anyone climb that far left Pablo, however I have seen a lot of folks get shut down at the bulge. Its an improbable set of moves until you just do it, but that's the way I've seen other people climb the route. Jun 20, 2016
Pablo-Roberts
Prescott, Arizona
 
Pablo-Roberts   Prescott, Arizona
 
Reading the description is confusing, as myself and 4 other people did not do the crux as described.

We all went left at the bulge, and used technical foot work and gaston crimps/pinches way out left of the smooth arete. ultimately either skipping the second to last bolt and going left up jugs or moving back right into the big jug to clip that bolt and straight up.

Regardless it still seemed 12-. Slippery pinches/gastons on the upper left. Jun 20, 2016
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Snuck out there today, and all the holds are still there. It's not a straight forward crux, but it is pretty damn good once you figure out how to do it. Jun 6, 2015
Aaron Townsley
Scottsdale, Arizona
Aaron Townsley   Scottsdale, Arizona
After talking with someone who has climbed it, I may have just been a bit confused as to how that section is done. Although there definitely seems like a section of rock on the bulgy arete gave out. either way i'd love to hear what you guys think next time you get out there. Apr 10, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Can't imagine what holds might have gave at the bulgy crux. I'll definitely take a look next time I'm out there. Mar 30, 2015
Aaron Townsley
Scottsdale, Arizona
Aaron Townsley   Scottsdale, Arizona
I've climbed the direct line a few times now, I hopped on Sweet Back just recently and it appears some holds broke off at the upper arete. There is a very obvious broken section. Unless I missed something (even after puzzled trouble shooting for 15 minutes) I think this route just jumped up a good leap in difficulty, I was unable to figure out a way to pull through this upper roof area to get up onto the slab. Darren, JJ, or anybody who climbs here often please let me know what your thoughts are when you get out there next? Mar 30, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Yes, dacite can be a tricky stone, and you tend to miss a lot first go. But hats off to a sports action filled ascent! Now I might have to do that middle line... Jul 9, 2012
I would have fallen off this thing if JJ hadn't given me some clues. It is a fun climb. Thanks for a fun day JJ. Jul 9, 2012