Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: JJ Schlick
Page Views: 4,589 total · 41/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Description

A sweet back is a hobo "sheik", and one who merely samples the ways of hobo living. This route features excellent, bouldery movement on positive holds, and it's a great sports action route. For the grade it feels like some of the steeper dacite climbing around town, and the rock quality is excellent.

Begin up featured right facing dihedral passing one bolt on the left, then continue up and left to a plank rest. Long draws on the first two bolts off the ledge will help your rope flow. When ready, punch through 25' of semi technical bouldering to a decent shake below the obvious bulge.

From below the roof/ bulge, Sweet Back Direct moves right around the bulge, while the original Sweet Back traditionally climbs around the bulge on the left in order to get setup to climb the right side of the upper arete feature. Move up the right side of the arête past a knee scum at the second little bulge, compression moves, and a few hidden pocket jugs. Follow the curving spine to hanging chain anchors.

Location

Towards the middle of the wall. Right of the popular Hungry, Hungry Hobos and Hobolicious, to the left of Tin Roof Sunday. Hard to miss if you are looking for it.

Protection

9 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor with ClimbTech mussy hooks provided by the ASCA.

Photos