Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: JK
Page Views: 106 total · 30/month
Shared By: Jason Kevin on Aug 27, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


1 Opinions

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Description

Right off of the ground is an unorthodox sequence to gain a perfectly horizontal edge. Next, two crispy gastons offer just enough positivity to gain a good brick hold. Move left along textured crimps to the arete past a bolt on the slab using tiny sharp dacite crimps; make it this far and take the much earned rest at the first ledge. Two bolts with alpine draws on them guard the first few moves before another crux comes with pulling the bulge at the 9th bolt; again, a great ledge and deserved rest. Two more bolts off of the second ledge and a set of anchors equipped with chains and a couple of locking biners. The 4th through the 8th bolt are all recommended to be pre-clipped using alpine draws to reduce extreme rope drag. This is easily done by climbing Hobophobic (5.11b/c) as a warm-up and equipping the route from its' anchor station.

Location

A pathway of steps built by Yours Truly and A Close Friend mark the base of this route. Black and orange streaks paint an aesthetic face above an obvious 'rib' feature start, just left of the bolted dihedral 'Hobophobic'.

Protection

11 Bolts & Chains

Photos

Jason Kevin
Munds Park, AZ
  5.13b
Jason Kevin   Munds Park, AZ
  5.13b
The movement on this route is really fun but it has a tiny section of bad rock that I think takes from the quality of the route, still a worthy line for a rambler like myself, though. Aug 27, 2018