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Routes in Hobo Jungle

A No.1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Band of Gypsies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Rock Candy Mountain T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Bindlestiff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Boxcar Tourist S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cackleberry S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Calling In S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cat Wagon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Couch Surfer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Elk Sign S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frisk A Drag S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gandy Dancer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grease the Tracks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
High Hanging Biscuits S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hobo Hash S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hobophilia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hobophobic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hungry Hungry Hobo S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jolt Train T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jungle Buzzard S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Late For the Gravy Train T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lucky Streak S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mulligan Pie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mulligan Stew S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mushfaker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Never Ending Night Train T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pie in the Sky T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Possum Belly S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Railway Runaway S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Redball S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Road Sister S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shootin' Snipes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
South of No North S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Southern Exposure S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steel Reserve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sweet Back S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sweet Back Direct S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tin Roof Sunday T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twist a Dream T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Uberfall T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Volt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wanderer Over Yonder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Westbound Willy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whistling Wabash, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: D. Mabe, June 2012
Page Views: 135 total, 2/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

This one is on the house. Begin in the corner that Sweet Back starts in, but angle up and right on easy slab to a large ledge.

From the ledge, crank up the angled crack to a block beneath the roof. A bolt protects the puzzling crux boulder problem roof. Continue up the crack and roll around the bulge to the right at a horizontal. Finish with the intimidating slab to anchors on a good stance.

Location

TRS pulls the roof to the left of the obvious leaning splitter of Never Ending Night Train, and starts the same as for the obvious bolted Sweet Back arete.

Protection

#0.3 to #2 C4, with an extra #0.4, #0.5, #0.75, and #1. stoppers and aliens are also nice to have.

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
This is one of those routes where a little beta goes a long way. In the spirit of that the boulder problem crux turning the roof is burly and somewhat confusing during an onsight. Especially if no ones been on her in a while... I left a bomber fixed wire above the roof ( the next piece of gear after the bolt). It doesn't interfere with other TCU options or your fingerr jams, but will most likely make this section more enjoyable. I also thought that clipping a single biner on the bolt might help better position the rope for the leader, and whoever is cleaning the pitch. It would keep the rope out of the crack and away from the crux holds. A #1 Camalot in as shallow pod post crux helps you nerve up through the sequencey final face moves 5.10- (also #.4 and #.5 placement in horizontal) to the hidden anchors, above and well right of the Sweet Back anchors which are visible and off to the left. Great rock and movement through the whole crux and upper portions of the route, and I wouldn't expect a soft .11d if i were you... And though the gear can be very good, it is still a heads up lead. Goes into the much welcomed shade around 1:30. Awesome line Darren! May 18, 2013
Eric D
Gnarnia
5.11+
Eric D   Gnarnia
5.11+
A cool route that climbs unique features - flakes, blocks, cracks, and a roof. The roof is great! Jul 1, 2012