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Tier Drops
WI4- M3+ R
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Feb 2011 |
Page Views: | 907 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Jay Harrison on Feb 3, 2012 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
P1: Climb the easy iced slab (often snow-covered) to the notch. 70' WI 2-
P2: Climb up the little notch onto a sloping ice shelf and(V1, V2) move 20' left to a pile of boulders. Scramble up the boulders, weaving a path to get over the steep headwall, then walk up to the base of the overhanging wall. 50' M2
P3: (V3) Climb up the full-length pillar on the right side of the iced overhang. WI 4- 30'
V1 M3: Move left 15' and climb the narrow ice band flowing from a right-facing rock corner.
V2 WI 5/M 5?: Not sure how to grade this. Climb directly up the thinly-iced face above the notch. This rarely forms, and when it does, it is poorly-bonded.
V3 WI5/M5: Climb the discontinuous icicles on the left side, through a double overhang. In a good year, this may be simply WI 4/4+.
Crux location depends a bit on where/how one climbs the route, as noted by the variations.
The tier pitch is great, but short, and difficult to get to w/o doing the lower pitches or contriving a rappel approach.
There are more short tiers of easier ice above this that have been climbed, all around WI3.
P2: Climb up the little notch onto a sloping ice shelf and(V1, V2) move 20' left to a pile of boulders. Scramble up the boulders, weaving a path to get over the steep headwall, then walk up to the base of the overhanging wall. 50' M2
P3: (V3) Climb up the full-length pillar on the right side of the iced overhang. WI 4- 30'
V1 M3: Move left 15' and climb the narrow ice band flowing from a right-facing rock corner.
V2 WI 5/M 5?: Not sure how to grade this. Climb directly up the thinly-iced face above the notch. This rarely forms, and when it does, it is poorly-bonded.
V3 WI5/M5: Climb the discontinuous icicles on the left side, through a double overhang. In a good year, this may be simply WI 4/4+.
Crux location depends a bit on where/how one climbs the route, as noted by the variations.
The tier pitch is great, but short, and difficult to get to w/o doing the lower pitches or contriving a rappel approach.
There are more short tiers of easier ice above this that have been climbed, all around WI3.
Location
About 150 yds R of the Waterfall Wall, starting behind a pile of boulders. Look for a narrow slab of ice leading up to low, short rock notch. Often, the 20' tall, steep face directly above this notch is verglassed or wet, and has a vertical seam running directly up from the notch. From across the stream, one can see the money pitch's eponymous tier, ice flowing over a large rock overhang.
One can access this by climbing 3 pitches of the Waterfall Wall, then descending via 2nd and 3rd class ramps climber's right to a ledge system that rolls along 200' to the top of the "tier" pitch.
Descend via rappels off trees.
One can access this by climbing 3 pitches of the Waterfall Wall, then descending via 2nd and 3rd class ramps climber's right to a ledge system that rolls along 200' to the top of the "tier" pitch.
Descend via rappels off trees.
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