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Routes in Southeast Slopes

BAW Portal WI3+
ByGolly Gully T WI2-
Crystal Breeze WI3
DR. Drip WI3+
Eyebrow WI2
Fifi's Frozen Fingers WI4-
Gem'n'I WI2-
Hunt and Peck WI3
Immigrant Song T WI3+ M2+
Isobuttress Left WI2
Leap of Faith WI3
Measles Wall Flows WI2-3
Northeast Cascade WI2-
Providence WI3 M2
Ramps WI2
Renegade M5-6 PG13
Sola Gratia WI3 M3 X
Three White Rappers WI3-
Tier Drops T WI4- M3+ R
Underworld T M4
Waterfall Wall T WI3
Wedding Cake WI2-3
West Coast Connection T WI4- M4 PG13
Whiteshade WI3+
Type: Ice, 60 ft
FA: Jan 2010
Page Views: 844 total · 9/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jan 24, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Steep but not quite vertical climbing for 50'. There is no real crux, it's just a long ride on near-vertical terrain.
I've looked at this for over a decade; way back when even took a shot at it with Travis K., but we backed off.
The warm temps today made for bomber sticks, lending the bravado to give it another go. I figure with the impending thaw, the whole thing is going to come down and I might have to wait another year to get at it.
This is a fun pitch, reminiscent of Crystal Ice Tower.

There are good TR options on either side of the fat "finger" of ice. The left is thin ice to the top; the right involves a tricky drytool sequence to access enough ice for verglas tapping the rest of the ride. In good years, this all gets fat enough to climb as pure ice.

Location

Here's the problem. Either climb the Waterfall Wall to the top of the penultimate pitch, then walk climber's left and descend a ramp to the base of this route,
OR
Walk the BAW path across the BAW and continue along as it passes over the top of the Slanting Cracks Wall, rolling along mostly downward to an easy slide down to the ramp that runs along the base of the route.
Descent: either walk back (climber's) left from the top along the BAW path or rappel from trees and wander back to the base of the Waterfall.

Protection

13 - 19cm screws

Photos

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