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Routes in Southeast Slopes

BAW Portal WI3+
ByGolly Gully T WI2-
Crystal Breeze WI3
DR. Drip WI3+
Eyebrow WI2
Fifi's Frozen Fingers WI4-
Gem'n'I WI2-
Hunt and Peck WI3
Immigrant Song T WI3+ M2+
Isobuttress Left WI2
Leap of Faith WI3
Measles Wall Flows WI2-3
Northeast Cascade WI2-
Providence WI3 M2
Ramps WI2
Renegade M5-6 PG13
Sola Gratia WI3 M3 X
Three White Rappers WI3-
Tier Drops T WI4- M3+ R
Underworld T M4
Waterfall Wall T WI3
Wedding Cake WI2-3
West Coast Connection T WI4- M4 PG13
Whiteshade WI3+
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 60 ft
FA: Cameron Coppock, February 11, 2012
Page Views: 397 total, 6/month
Shared By: Cameron Coppock on Apr 25, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

The climb begins with a low angle rubble filled off width. Follow this with easy hooks and some ice to a solid clear flow just below the large rock one third of the way up. Place a screw and/or cam here as the ice is usually marginal from here on up. The crux and best part of the route begins here. Stem and hook up slightly overhanging rock to a narrow ice runnel that forces a strange OW struggle. Follow this to another overhang above a small stance with some small gear. Work up parallel cracks and stem up tenuous placements to a dirty finish.
The rock at this particular location is smooth, and the ice slow to form, so there are few good mixed placements making this climb more challenging than it appears from the ground.The top section is also dirty.

Location

Sixty feet left (south) of Fifi's Frozen Fingers follow the obvious discontinuous OW to a large boulder perched sixty feet above.

Protection

A few screws, mid size cams, a set of nuts. A spectre may also be useful depending on conditions. Use trees as anchors.

Photos

Bill Sacks
Sacramento, CA
Bill Sacks   Sacramento, CA
It was just another weekend trip in the Southern Daks for ice climbing. We didn't get to climb Providence, but Fifi's was in.

Jan 25, 2013
Jay Harrison  
 
Great to see this getting done. What brought you to Crane? Did you get a chance to climb Providence and Fifi's as well? Jan 7, 2013