Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Ice, 100 ft|
|Page Views:||613 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Harrison on Feb 18, 2010|
I had only enough rope to reach a ledge on the left 100'+ up. In order to gain a rappel tree, I had to leap left from a small ledge blocked by a rock rib, hence the route's name. It is an easy leap with a stiff penalty for failure. I suspect in good years there's plenty of ice to use for that traverse.
There is potential to lead another 20' or so higher if the ice is in well.
UPDATE: The topmost section has been climbed, as it was "in" during early February 2018. The overall grade does not change. There was also a fantastic possible run up the right edge of the ice formation, that would include a WI 4 pillar and an easy mixed finish up a narrow ice streak. It may be possible to run up the left edge on harder mixed terrain as well.
This is one of the better ice pitches on Crane, though its isolation will keep it from drawing crowds. Also note that it is currently on private property.
ADDENDUM: The right edge of this formation has been climbed (Feb 2019). It is a bit harder than the middle of the flow, but unless one completely limits pointing in anything but the pillar (which would make it grade 4), it is only marginally so. The ice above the pillar is narrow and protection is limited. There is a final bulging step with rather anemic ice to get past, but it isn't much different than the final moves of the original line.
The route is visible near the far end of the Giant Boulder Pile north of the Waterfall Wall about 25 minutes' walk. This is north of the Northern Cascade another 15 minutes.
Walk past the entire boulder pile to access a left-slanting ramp with a steep wall on its right (several short, steep ice flows) and work up left along it until the righthand wall dies out, then traverse right to the base of the climb.
Look for a 40' low-angle ice slab border by a large, overhanging, left-facing corner on the right.
No anchors at top; though there are small trees that will do. Descend by two-rope rappel, or walk climber's left to any of several spots were multiple single rope rappels will get you back to the base.