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Routes in Southeast Slopes

BAW Portal WI3+
ByGolly Gully T WI2-
Crystal Breeze WI3
DR. Drip WI3+
Eyebrow WI2
Fifi's Frozen Fingers WI4-
Gem'n'I WI2-
Hunt and Peck WI3
Immigrant Song T WI3+ M2+
Isobuttress Left WI2
Leap of Faith WI3
Measles Wall Flows WI2-3
Northeast Cascade WI2-
Providence WI3 M2
Ramps WI2
Renegade M5-6 PG13
Sola Gratia WI3 M3 X
Three White Rappers WI3-
Tier Drops T WI4- M3+ R
Underworld T M4
Waterfall Wall T WI3
Wedding Cake WI2-3
West Coast Connection T WI4- M4 PG13
Whiteshade WI3+
Type: Ice, 100 ft
FA: Feb. 2010
Page Views: 348 total, 4/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Feb 18, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

The crux is either working up the 40' thin slab w/o pro or the steep face above this. In good years, the ice on the slab takes screws (it would have before the Jan. thaw this season), but in lean years, no gear will go until the headwall is reached. One may be able to reach right and place a cam in the rock, but the ice gets really skinny in that direction.
I had only enough rope to reach a ledge on the left 100'+ up. In order to gain a rappel tree, I had to leap left from a small ledge blocked by a rock rib, hence the route's name. It is an easy leap with a stiff penalty for failure. I suspect in good years there's plenty of ice to use for that traverse.
There is potential to lead another 40' or so higher if the ice is in well.

Location

Note that a 70m rope barely reaches the base from the very lowest tree, with stretch. You may need to use double ropes, or rap to a birch tree on the left and rap again, in order to reach safety.
The route is visible near the far end of the Giant Boulder Pile north of the Waterfall Wall about 25 minutes' walk. This is north of the Northern Cascade another 15 minutes.
Walk past the entire boulder pile to access a left-slanting ramp with a steep wall on its right (several short, steep ice flows) and work up left along it until the righthand wall dies out, then traverse right to the base of the climb.
Look for a 40' low-angle ice slab border by a large, overhanging, left-facing corner on the right.

Protection

Screws, from 10 to 20cm, and runners for occasional 'cicle slingin'.
No anchors at top.

Photos

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