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Routes in Southeast Slopes

BAW Portal WI3+
ByGolly Gully T WI2-
Crystal Breeze WI3
DR. Drip WI3+
Eyebrow WI2
Fifi's Frozen Fingers WI4-
Gem'n'I WI2-
Hunt and Peck WI3
Immigrant Song T WI3+ M2+
Isobuttress Left WI2
Leap of Faith T WI3
Measles Wall Flows WI2-3
Moments of Excitement T WI3+ R
Northeast Cascade WI2-
Providence WI3 M2
Ramps WI2
Renegade M5-6 PG13
Sola Gratia WI3 M3 X
Three White Rappers WI3-
Tier Drops T WI4- M3+ R
Underworld T M4
Unexspectred T WI4 M3+ R
Waterfall Wall T WI3
Wedding Cake WI2-3
West Coast Connection T WI4- M4 PG13
Whiteshade WI3+
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Type: Trad, Ice, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: January 18, 2011
Page Views: 307 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jan 18, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

I went out to the mountain today to find a new route, and in spite of heavy snowfall, torrential snow pellet bombardment, and poor visibility, by golly, I was going to find one.
Unfortunately, this was the best I could do with the time and conditions available.
There's a smallish, 25' bit of ice to start (avoidable by using the ramp to climber's left), then a lot of snow-slogging, interspersed with the occasional interesting variation or bit of ice.
It is scenic. Running through a square-cut notch that narrows considerably toward the top, it's sort of a Multiplication Gully on very strong relaxants.

Location

Walk ENE along the base of the mtn. about four minutes past the Waterfall Wall. About 100 feet left (as you face the mtn) of a large, rectangular boulder on the streamside opposite the mtn, look for the gully - or gigantic left-facing corner, running up the mountainside.
Descent: glissade down the gully, weaving over to use alternative ramps when the going gets too steep/icy, and making occasional rappels as needed.
It is possible to walk southwest to hit the Waterfall Wall drainage and thence use the walk-off at the top of its third pitch, but good wilderness travel savvy is required.

Protection

Slings and maybe an ice screw or two.

Photos

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Jay Harrison  
WI2-
We climbed this 2/2/2012. No snow, a lot of poorly-bonded ice. 2 parties of 2; we were able to climb short variations on either side along the way that ranged from WI 3- to 4, M2 to 3. More a technical/adventure hike than than a climb. Feb 3, 2012

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