Type: Trad, Ice, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: January 18, 2011
Page Views: 321 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jan 18, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

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I went out to the mountain today to find a new route, and in spite of heavy snowfall, torrential snow pellet bombardment, and poor visibility, by golly, I was going to find one.
Unfortunately, this was the best I could do with the time and conditions available.
There's a smallish, 25' bit of ice to start (avoidable by using the ramp to climber's left), then a lot of snow-slogging, interspersed with the occasional interesting variation or bit of ice.
It is scenic. Running through a square-cut notch that narrows considerably toward the top, it's sort of a Multiplication Gully on very strong relaxants.


Walk ENE along the base of the mtn. about four minutes past the Waterfall Wall. About 100 feet left (as you face the mtn) of a large, rectangular boulder on the streamside opposite the mtn, look for the gully - or gigantic left-facing corner, running up the mountainside.
Descent: glissade down the gully, weaving over to use alternative ramps when the going gets too steep/icy, and making occasional rappels as needed.
It is possible to walk southwest to hit the Waterfall Wall drainage and thence use the walk-off at the top of its third pitch, but good wilderness travel savvy is required.


Slings and maybe an ice screw or two.


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Jay Harrison  
We climbed this 2/2/2012. No snow, a lot of poorly-bonded ice. 2 parties of 2; we were able to climb short variations on either side along the way that ranged from WI 3- to 4, M2 to 3. More a technical/adventure hike than than a climb. Feb 3, 2012