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Routes in Southeast Slopes

Type: Mixed, Ice, 265 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,406 total, 25/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Dec 10, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

P1 M2 165': Climb the corner to its end on a broad ledge.
P2 WI3 100': Climb the ice slab to a short headwall and through this into the woods.
P1 begins up a narrow thread of ice deeply ensconced in the corner crack. After passing a narrow, steep spot, the going gets easier as the ice fattens and a chimney offers some refuge.

Location

Same as the rock route: hike around Crane's southern corner, begin descending along the SE flank, then cut up to the Slanting Cracks Wall when it becomes visible. If you can't see it, descend to the Waterfall then cut up left along the slope, walking generally south or west as you ascend the slopes below. Providence lies in a huge left-facing corner.
Descent: Either 2-rope rappel or walk up and south into the Black Arches Wall col. Cross this to hook up with the BAW path or descend the col to a single-rope rappel.

Protection

Cams, Tricams, and screws.
Note that the first pitch is a natural funnel for anything falling from above, and screws on the 2nd pitch will melt out if it is sunny (cover them with snow!).

Photos

J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
  WI3 M2
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
  WI3 M2
Very fun route, and a good intro to mixed climbing since there are really only a few rock moves, but a good chunk of the gear is rock protection on the first and even 2nd pitches. Much more difficult than it looks at the base or in photos. The runnel of ice is tough to stay balanced on and the protection is thin for the first 1/3 of the first pitch. Nov 6, 2014
Jay Harrison  
 
Blog post covering a run up the route, with pictures here:
blog.mtnsideview.com/2011/0…
It is indeed a fun route, currently the first pitch is in good condition, the second in OK shape. Feb 1, 2011