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Routes in Southeast Slopes

Type: Trad, Mixed, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: January 29, 2012 Jay Harrison, Jamie McNeill
Page Views: 246 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jan 29, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

We spied this line after seeing that Providence was too wet to climb.
Nice rt. as a mixed line. While the upper pitch runs up an enticing crack system, it's way too dirty/mossy to become a rock rt.
P1: Climb the thinly-iced slab to a dufframp leading to an oak tree. 40' WI 3-.
P2: Climb up the frozen, dirty crack up and left of the belay, making a difficult (crux) move to gain a left-rising crack with thin ice on the slab below. Follow it up left to easy ground, and belay at another oak tree. 60' M4.
P3: Walk up a large, easy, left-rising ramp to a corner with 3 crack systems: one in the corner, one just to the corner's left, and another 5' right of the corner. Work up this corner using any, all or none of them as seems expedient (2nd crux, M4).

Location

Approximately 100 yds left of the start of Providence, look for the iced slab 50' past the large chimney system.
One can reach this rt by walking directly downslope from the BAW Portal base, then cutting down along the base of the steep rock wall known as the Underworld.
Descent can be had by making rightward rappels to the chimney system and one more rappel down it - but in all likelihood, you've come from above, so work your way up to the BAW path to head out.

Protection

2 Screws for the 1st pitch, a full set of cams (a #4 Camalot will help finish the last pitch).

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