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Routes in Southeast Slopes

BAW Portal WI3+
ByGolly Gully T WI2-
Crystal Breeze WI3
DR. Drip WI3+
Eyebrow WI2
Fifi's Frozen Fingers WI4-
Gem'n'I WI2-
Hunt and Peck WI3
Immigrant Song T WI3+ M2+
Isobuttress Left WI2
Leap of Faith T WI3
Measles Wall Flows WI2-3
Moments of Excitement T WI3+ R
Northeast Cascade WI2-
Providence WI3 M2
Ramps WI2
Renegade M5-6 PG13
Sola Gratia WI3 M3 X
Three White Rappers WI3-
Tier Drops T WI4- M3+ R
Underworld T M4
Unexspectred T WI4 M3+ R
Waterfall Wall T WI3
Wedding Cake WI2-3
West Coast Connection T WI4- M4 PG13
Whiteshade WI3+
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Type: Mixed, 150 ft
FA: Jan 29 2013
Page Views: 387 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jan 30, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

The first 40' is an easy wallow to the Patio, sometimes deeply covered by snow. Above that, the game is on. A steep, narrow ice step leads to a bit easier going before coming to a bulge with a fist-crack on the left. Up you go, plugging #2 C4s and Tricams liberally (you did bring plenty of them, right?), to an awkward transition and somewhat run-out climbing to the final obstacle: an overhang at the top of the chimney. The small cams come in handy here. Wrestle your way to the top, grasp at straws, choss, and moss as you gain the final steps to safety.

Location [Suggest Change]

Same as the Rock Route of the same name, the dirty corner system between Plumb Line and Critical Crimps. This is the right-facing corner system left of a slab apron at the low point of the Black Arches Wall. It turns into a chimney near the top and is capped by an overhang.

Protection [Suggest Change]

One each of .3, .4, .5 #3, two or three #2 C4s; a couple stubby ice screws, and a 2.5 and 3 Tricam. A sling or two may come in handy as well.
There is an anchor on an oak tree slightly right of the top-out. Must make two rappels to get down, or with a 70m rope, one if you go sharply climber's right, through the tree and brush festooned cliff near Hunt & Peck.

Photos

Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
as far as i know, this still hasn't seen a second ascent since jay put it up. this is a really high quality climb of the hidden gem status. one of those climbs that has you digging into your bag o tricks, really varied. i lack skills and my winter bag sucks so i top roped it. Nov 28, 2014

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