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Routes in Southeast Slopes

Type: Ice, 200 ft
FA: December 2009
Page Views: 292 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Mar 6, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

The start and finish are steep, the rest is often a snowslog. In low snow conditions or late in the season, the midsection may be bare, low-angle slab.
There is a potential variation, pulling through an overhanging crack system at the eyebrow overhang's upper end, that would be quite difficult mixed climbing.
There may be more ice/steep snow climbing above, leading into a major gully slanting up the mountain. This could be a worthwhile "alpine" ascent line.

Location

Approach: Take the BAW path past the height of land, until you see a crag with a large, square-cut overhang 20' up, on the left side of the trail.
Cut up the slope left of this to the base of the main cliff and walk left ~100', to the middle of a slab lying right of and beneath a large, "eyebrow" overhang (overhanging wall slanting up right).
This route is left of Sola Gratia.
Descent: a 70m rappel slanting (climber's) right will just barely reach "Blueberry Ledge", which can be scrambled down climber's left.

Protection

16cm screws plus a few stubbies and runners.

Photos

One can do an interesting extension, the Mountaineer's Route, by continuing straight uphill after reaching the trees to the end of the rope (200 - 230'). We belayed at a big oak tree with a large horizontal branch on the downhill side.
P2: A thinly-iced, low-angle slab lies above, left of a tree-choked gully. Climb the slab, moving right into the gully at the top. A short bit of thrashing leads to a small level spot good for belaying. About 125'.
P3: The gully above is still tight with trees; climb up left of it until a clear traverse right can be made. You will be under an overhang, with a horizontal crack leading out onto the buttress to the right. Holster the axe and traverse right to a crack between the cliff and a boulder perched on the arĂȘte. Scramble on top of the boulder and walk up easy slab (no pro) to the tree line, moving left to reach the promontory's peak. About 120'
Descent: 3 rappels interspersed with short walks to good rappel trees, or bushwhack to the summit and take the trail down.
All of this route could be done with a single tool.

Feb 1, 2012

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