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The North Gym | 5701
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.4 from 8
votes
Routes in The North Gym
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"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Alpha Chino's Chinos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Apogee Pending S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fatties Fart 3 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Flamingo Lane S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Here We Go Again... Again. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lead Farmer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Logan's Run S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Long Black Veil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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North Gym | 5701, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Observe God's Mistake S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orange S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Pimp's Main Prophet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Power Milk & Bagels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Power Thirteen S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Rum-Tum-Tuggernaughts S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Satan's Alley S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spitting Image S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Squeeze S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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That's What She Said S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Treble Huck S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Unknown 1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown 3 S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Who Left the Fridge Open? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 38.6395, -105.215 |
| FA: | Neil Canon, Bob Robertson, Rich Aschert |
| Page Views: | 1,693 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 18, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
According to legend, this was the first route at The North Gym, and this section of the cliffline is named for this route. Established ground-up in October 1985, this was also one of the very first routes at Shelf Road.
This steep slab begins with some intriguing, off-balance liebacking but ends in a brutal slab crux with tiny slopey holds. Not sold yet? This line sports a piton and a 1/4" Star-Drive as well, though both are backed up by 3/8" angle-iron bolts that are only 25-or-so years old. Despite the old-school nature of the climb, the rock is excellent, and the first half is enjoyable and novel.
Lieback & fingerlock up the offset seam. When the seam peters out, make some difficult moves to the horizontal break and a great rest. After a body length of trivial moves, weave desperately between uninspiring edges that all seem to face the wrong way. After the high horizontal break, a few big jugs lead to the top.
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