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"Black Crack" (Name Unknown)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.3 from 7
votes
Routes in The North Gym
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"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Alpha Chino's Chinos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Apogee Pending S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fatties Fart 3 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Flamingo Lane S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Here We Go Again... Again. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lead Farmer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Logan's Run S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Long Black Veil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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North Gym | 5701, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Observe God's Mistake S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orange S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Pimp's Main Prophet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Power Milk & Bagels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Power Thirteen S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Rum-Tum-Tuggernaughts S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Satan's Alley S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spitting Image S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Squeeze S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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That's What She Said S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Treble Huck S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Unknown 1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown 3 S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Who Left the Fridge Open? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 38.6395, -105.215 |
| FA: | Rich Aschert & Co.? |
| Page Views: | 2,103 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Mar 15, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This line liebacks, jams, and stems up the obvious open-book. A set of 1980s-vintage ring bolts near the top of the cliff suggest the line was climbed on gear back in the day, but it has recently been retro-bolted by an unknown party.
Stem and lieback up smooth black rock to an easier section passing a large, detached flake. The feet get scarce passing an orange patch, then a brief juggy bulge leads to the route's highlight, a short section of splitter finger crack. Jam up the crack to deteriorating white stone and the original anchor. Continue a few more feet over a juggy roof to a new, stainless, springer anchor.
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