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Routes in The North Gym

"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alpha Chino's Chinos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Apogee Pending S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flamingo Lane S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Retard S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Here We Go Again... Again. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lead Farmer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Logan's Run S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Long Black Veil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Observe God's Mistake S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orange S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pimp's Main Prophet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Power Milk & Bagels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Thirteen S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rum-Tum-Tuggernaughts S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Satan's Alley S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spitting Image S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeeze S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Teenage Prostitutes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
That's What She Said S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Treble Huck S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Unknown 1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 3 S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Who Left the Fridge Open? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mark & Kate Anderson, 6 March 2011
Page Views: 150 total · 2/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 15, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

Some routes just don't turn out the way you'd like. Still, this line has great rock like all the routes on this wall, although it can be quite sharp in places. The movement in the crux is awkward, but stemming aficionados will likely enjoy it.

Begin below a short, shallow, left-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral until high enough to pull up onto the slab to the right. Cruise the easy slab to a large ledge below the high, leaning corner. Stem awkwardly up the corner, utilizing holds on either side of the seam, to reach a killer pocket. Traverse tenuously right past this pocket to reach easier terrain on the slab. Recently relocated bolts make this section much less spicy than on the FA. From the 5th bolt, delicate moves on sharp rock work up the slab, or lieback the flake on the left. A few easy pulls from the top of the flake reach the anchor.

Location [Suggest Change]

Hike ~4-5 minutes left (south) from where the approach trail meets the cliff to locate an orange wall of clean stone with an obvious bulge running the width of the cliff at 1/3 height. This is the "Tropical Wall". This is the furthest left route on the wall.

Protection [Suggest Change]

6 bolts, 2 BA. A stick clip is recommended.

Photos

damonachey Achey
Colorado Springs, CO
 
damonachey Achey   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Just to the left coming out of the last dihedral is a very precarious, large, and dangerous loose rock. It doesn't have to be used but looks like a nice rest, be careful!!! Apr 5, 2016
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
  5.10d PG13
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
  5.10d PG13
At 5'7", I couldn't reach the third bolt off the ledge. Made for an exciting move to get there. Fun climb with neat moves through the dihedral section. Apr 6, 2016

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