Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mark Anderson
Page Views: 628 total · 20/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 17, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This gymnast’s dream follows huge jugs up a dramatically overhanging prow in a wild and scenic venue. Surely this line offers some of the most pure fun climbing at Shelf, with toe cams, heel hooks, and a series of big dynos. There is a bit of loose rock on the approach, but where it counts, the rock is solid and well-featured.

Stick clip the first bolt, making tricky moves to clear the slight bulge on brittle, prickly stone. A few thin cranks off the big ledge lead to a juggy rail traverse and another easy stance below the intimidating roof. Clear the ceiling with exotic footwork and a big throw, then race the building pump up more big holds and big moves to one final showdown at the dramatic, capping roof.


This route is located in the forgotten zone between The Gym and The North Gym. It can be approached easily from either crag, though it’s only a few minutes from the left end of The North Gym. Alternatively, it’s just under a 10-minute walk from The Example.


10B to 2BA. A stick clip is recommended. There is a bad/spinner bolt adjacent to the 8th bolt. Clip the one that doesn’t spin (on the left).