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Routes in The North Gym

"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alpha Chino's Chinos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Apogee Pending S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flamingo Lane S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Retard S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Here We Go Again... Again. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lead Farmer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Logan's Run S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Long Black Veil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Observe God's Mistake S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orange S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pimp's Main Prophet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Power Milk & Bagels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Thirteen S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rum-Tum-Tuggernaughts S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Satan's Alley S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spitting Image S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeeze S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Teenage Prostitutes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
That's What She Said S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Treble Huck S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Unknown 1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 3 S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Who Left the Fridge Open? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mark Anderson, 13 March 2011
Page Views: 6,478 total, 79/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 15, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Apogee Pending climbs the directissima up Shelf Road's most continuously steep panel of rock. Unfortunately, a no-hands rest at mid-height detracts from the continuity of the line, but the upper half features 25-30 moves of brutal cranks and sustained, pumpy climbing. The route offers a wee bit of techno-piss, wild dynos, leg threads, tweaky pockets, and a sting in the tail on outstanding cream, pink, & black stone. This wall faces north and receives no sun whatsoever.

Stick clip the first bolt and climb a short, technical wall of petrified mud to a good shake near the arete. Big moves lead over the bulge to a pair of big pockets at the second bolt. A pair of thin crimps and a huge, three-points-off huck gain a series of mini-ledges just below the hanging flake. Cruise up the easy flake to a no-hands rest. Enjoy whatever reading material is at hand. The crux begins off the flake, with a long reach to a half-pad two-finger pocket, then a precise deadpoint to the next pocket, and finally a long move to the horizontal break. Get a quick shake then tackle the next crux; a huge move to a 1/4" crimp followed by desperate stabs to get established above the break. Pumpy slopers lead to the last bolt and one final, pumpy shake before the last crux, a big reach to a crescent-shaped crimp just below the anchor.

A certain amount of contrivance is needed to earn the grade: the arete on the left is off, and the vertical crack that propagates from the top of the flake is off (this sounds worse than it is, as the route climbs very naturally without these features).

Location

Apogee Pending climbs the obvious, overhanging north wall of the big dihedral.

Protection

6 bolts to 2 BA. A stick clip is recommended.
Checked this thing out this weekend! Took me a while to figure out all of the moves.... Super fun! Be careful of a lot of loose rock below the flake, there are some big chunks of stone ready to fall. Oct 23, 2017
Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT
Colby Wayment   Ogden, UT
Nice work, Mark! Great photos, too. It looks like that block you have to throw for is about to pull off.... Feb 19, 2012
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
Beanie is correct. Jan 14, 2012
slim    
It looks like a beanie resting on a small ledge(?). Jan 13, 2012
Did you red-tag this rig by spray painting a huge hold near the route with red paint? Just kidding, but seriously WTF is that red brick in the photos? Jan 13, 2012
Austin Baird
SLC, Utah
Austin Baird   SLC, Utah
I wish you hadn't given all the beta. You totally ruined my onsight. Sep 27, 2011
Why do you call it Apogee Pending? Is there an extension in the works or something? Looks like really nice rock. Way to go. Mar 17, 2011
It does my heart good to see you hit the hardest route at Shelf thus far. Great Job! It's a true contribution and one that will lead to something harder still.
Logan has good reason to be proud! Mar 15, 2011
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Awesome job, Mark! I can't wait to check out this route! Mar 15, 2011