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Rum-Tum-Tuggernaughts
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.2 from 13
votes
Routes in The North Gym
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"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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[Redacted] S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Alpha Chino's Chinos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Apogee Pending S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fatties Fart 3 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Flamingo Lane S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Here We Go Again... Again. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lead Farmer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Logan's Run S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Long Black Veil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Observe God's Mistake S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orange S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Pimp's Main Prophet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Power Milk & Bagels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Power Thirteen S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Rum-Tum-Tuggernaughts S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Satan's Alley S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spitting Image S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Squeeze S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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That's What She Said S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Treble Huck S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Unknown 1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown 3 S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Who Left the Fridge Open? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Mark Anderson, 6 March 2011 |
| Page Views: | 2,136 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Mar 15, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a classic route that makes a great warm-up, or a worthy project. There is a brief section of tedious, thin climbing just below the anchor, but for the most part this line involves fun, athletic climbing with big holds and big moves.
Climb big pockets up the beautiful yellow & brown panel, passing a precarious tooth, to reach a stance below the bulge. A big crank from a 2-finger pocket leads to jugs and the odd lieback up the crack/groove. As the crack peters out, follow great crimps and a few nice pockets to a thin section to reach a horizontal break and the anchor.
Climb big pockets up the beautiful yellow & brown panel, passing a precarious tooth, to reach a stance below the bulge. A big crank from a 2-finger pocket leads to jugs and the odd lieback up the crack/groove. As the crack peters out, follow great crimps and a few nice pockets to a thin section to reach a horizontal break and the anchor.
Location
Hike ~4-5 minutes left (south) from where the approach trail meets the cliff to locate an orange wall of clean stone with an obvious bulge running the width of the cliff at 1/3 height. This is the "Tropical Wall". This line climbs the central crack system through the bulge. Scramble up the left end of the ledge to start.
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