Type: Sport, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: Prep: ?, FFA Mark Anderson, 18 Nov. '11?
Page Views: 2,665 total · 23/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 21, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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This all-time classic has no peers at Shelf Road. The authentic arete climb--complete with pinches, arete slaps, and fancy footwork--is hands-down the best of its genre at Shelf, and would be highly regarded at the prow paradise of Smith Rock.

Make a few tricky moves to get established above the undercut start, then make a precise stab to a small pocket. Crank an unlikely boulder problem past a series of sidepulls to gain a great rest on the arete and an easy clip. High steps and left hand slaps work past a cool mono and a precarious clip at the fourth bolt. An off-balance move leads to the crook of the intimidating roof and the crux; a powerful rockover from a shallow mail slot to gain the slab. A few more tenuous moves guard the anchor.


This is on the left side of "The Cirque", which is an elevated amphitheatre about 50 yards north of the Teenage Prostitute area. A 10' fourth class scramble is required to access The Cirque.


5 bolts to 2BA.