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Routes in The North Gym

"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alpha Chino's Chinos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Apogee Pending S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flamingo Lane S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Retard S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Here We Go Again... Again. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lead Farmer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Logan's Run S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Long Black Veil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Observe God's Mistake S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orange S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pimp's Main Prophet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Power Milk & Bagels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Thirteen S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rum-Tum-Tuggernaughts S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Satan's Alley S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spitting Image S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeeze S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Teenage Prostitutes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
That's What She Said S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Treble Huck S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Unknown 1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 3 S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Who Left the Fridge Open? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Mark Anderson
Page Views: 462 total, 6/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Apr 19, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

"I hoped it would be harder"

"That's what she said!"


This line climbs the stunning arete, but due to the slabby nature of the upper left face, the line suffers somewhat from the "climbing near an arete, rather than arete climbing" syndrome common to many Shelf "aretes". As such, the route is not nearly as good or as difficult as it looks. However, there is still some authentic arete climbing in the cruxy lower third, with atleast one slap move, and some fancy arete footwork.

Stick clip the first bolt, then step onto the arete from the boulder. After a few easy moves, tackle the obvious overhang, eventually making a big reach to a poor 2-finger pocket. Bump up the arete, gunning for better pockets, ultimately arriving at a good stance right on the arete, below a small roof. Big but hard-to-see jugs lead over the roof to a no-hands ledge below the third bolt. Clear the easy roof to gain the slab, then cruise easily to the high ledge. Traverse the ledge either left or right to either of the adjacent routes' anchors (easier to clean from Unknown 1).

Location

Climbs the obvious over-hanging arete left of Apogee Pending.

Protection

5 bolts, 2BA (shared with Unknown 1). Stick clip recommended. The finish is a bit spicy (on 5.8 or less terrain), but all of the hard moves are well protected. Bring a few finger-sized cams to protect the last 30' if so desired.

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