Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mark & Kate Anderson, 13 Mar. 2011
Page Views: 664 total · 7/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 15, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Earth Mama offers some beautiful, sculpted pockets, but it is somewhat discontinuous with some spooky (though solid?) flakes. Due to the reflector-oven nature of the alcove, this route bakes when the sun is just right (~11 am).

Begin from the far right end of the ledge. Stick clip the hidden first bolt, then grovel up the bushy gully on the right, or climb a slightly more difficult panel of beautiful yellow & brown stone with sinker pockets to reach the higher ledge. Great pockets lead to a short liebacking stretch, then the crux at the third bolt. Better rock & movement is found by heading right, but it's easier to continue up the chossy crack to the left. Big jugs below the slab offer a great rest. Lieback the "Even Wheat Thin Thinks You're Anorexic" flake to the left, or cruise the fun, highly featured slab to the anchor (make sure your life insurance policy is up to date if you decide to pull on the flake).

Location

Hike ~4-5 minutes left (south) from where the approach trail meets the cliff to locate an orange wall of clean stone with an obvious bulge running the width of the cliff at 1/3 height. This is the "Tropical Wall". This is the furthest right line on the Tropical Wall, beginning on the far right end of the ledge, climbing up the left side of a sheltered alcove.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 BA. A stick clip is recommended. The extension is a closed project.

Photos

Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
This line is sweet. Perfect rock, neat pockets, and very consistent climbing. Dec 8, 2011