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Routes in The North Gym

"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alpha Chino's Chinos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Apogee Pending S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flamingo Lane S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Retard S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Here We Go Again... Again. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lead Farmer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Logan's Run S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Long Black Veil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Observe God's Mistake S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orange S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pimp's Main Prophet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Power Milk & Bagels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Thirteen S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rum-Tum-Tuggernaughts S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Satan's Alley S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spitting Image S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeeze S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Teenage Prostitutes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
That's What She Said S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Treble Huck S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Unknown 1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 3 S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Who Left the Fridge Open? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mark & Kate Anderson, 13 Mar. 2011
Page Views: 647 total · 7/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 15, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

Earth Mama offers some beautiful, sculpted pockets, but it is somewhat discontinuous with some spooky (though solid?) flakes. Due to the reflector-oven nature of the alcove, this route bakes when the sun is just right (~11 am).

Begin from the far right end of the ledge. Stick clip the hidden first bolt, then grovel up the bushy gully on the right, or climb a slightly more difficult panel of beautiful yellow & brown stone with sinker pockets to reach the higher ledge. Great pockets lead to a short liebacking stretch, then the crux at the third bolt. Better rock & movement is found by heading right, but it's easier to continue up the chossy crack to the left. Big jugs below the slab offer a great rest. Lieback the "Even Wheat Thin Thinks You're Anorexic" flake to the left, or cruise the fun, highly featured slab to the anchor (make sure your life insurance policy is up to date if you decide to pull on the flake).

Location [Suggest Change]

Hike ~4-5 minutes left (south) from where the approach trail meets the cliff to locate an orange wall of clean stone with an obvious bulge running the width of the cliff at 1/3 height. This is the "Tropical Wall". This is the furthest right line on the Tropical Wall, beginning on the far right end of the ledge, climbing up the left side of a sheltered alcove.

Protection [Suggest Change]

5 bolts, 2 BA. A stick clip is recommended. The extension is a closed project.

Photos

Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
This line is sweet. Perfect rock, neat pockets, and very consistent climbing. Dec 8, 2011

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