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Routes in The North Gym

"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alpha Chino's Chinos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Apogee Pending S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flamingo Lane S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Retard S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Here We Go Again... Again. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lead Farmer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Logan's Run S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Long Black Veil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Observe God's Mistake S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orange S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pimp's Main Prophet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Power Milk & Bagels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Thirteen S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rum-Tum-Tuggernaughts S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Satan's Alley S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spitting Image S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeeze S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Teenage Prostitutes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
That's What She Said S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Treble Huck S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Unknown 1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 3 S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Who Left the Fridge Open? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mark Anderson, 18 Nov. '11
Page Views: 1,472 total, 20/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 21, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This clean white bulge is one of the most continuously steep lines at Shelf, requiring big, athletic moves on relatively huge holds. A short band of choss before the business detracts somewhat, and the rock on the rest of the line is not quite as clean as it could be. However, the movement and position is superior to other routes of the grade at Shelf, lacking the tweaky and painful holds found elsewhere.

Stick clip the first bolt, then cruise the easy slab to a stance at the break. Alert your belayer, then teeter past a 3' band of spooky choss to reach a shallow open book in solid stone, just below the steepness. Make a big span to a 2-finger pocket to reach a honeycomb band of huge pocket jugs that all seem to face the wrong way. Another big reach to hidden holds sets up a difficult clip, and then the crux: a dynamic, rising traverse to gain the headwall.

Location

This is the furthest right bolted line in the Teenage Prostitutes area, climbing a tall white bulge. Due to its SE aspect, this line sees more sun than other routes on this section of the cliff.

Protection

5 bolts to 2BA. Stick clip recommended.
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
This route is superb. Easily one of the more athletic routes at Shelf on mostly perfect rock. If typical Shelf climbing turns you off, try this route. Dec 13, 2011
Great job, Mark. An excellent looking line and an excellent addition to Shelf! Nov 28, 2011